MT
Glacier National Park
Going-to-the-Sun Road and 37 named glaciers in northern Montana, the range the Blackfeet call the Backbone of the World.
Established
We haven’t been to Glacier yet. This page is the homework we’re doing before we drive in: how to split the days across the divide, which walks suit short legs, and the logistics that catch families off guard. The structured sections below are the plan; we’ll come back and rewrite the top once we’ve actually stood at Logan Pass.
Glacier is really two parks joined by one road. The west side holds Lake McDonald, the swim beach at Apgar, and the accessible cedar boardwalk; the east side holds the wildlife valleys, the Great Northern lodges, and the front of the range. Going-to-the-Sun Road, completed in 1932, links them across the Continental Divide at Logan Pass, 6,646 feet. The west valleys are the country of the Séliš (Salish), Ql̓ispé (Pend d’Oreille), and Ktunaxa (Kootenai); the east side is Amskapi Pikuni (Blackfeet) country, the range the Blackfeet call the Backbone of the World. All four nations were here long before George Bird Grinnell documented and lobbied for the park, and they are here now: Native America Speaks has run every summer since 1982, the longest Indigenous speaker series in the National Park Service. We plan to stay at least one night on the east side for that reason.
Two things shape the whole trip. The first is the road. Going-to-the-Sun usually opens end to end only late June or early July through mid-October, and the Logan Pass lot fills by 8 a.m., so the advice is to drive west to east in the morning. The vehicle reservation system is paused for 2026, but a new ticketed shuttle to Logan Pass runs via Recreation.gov, and the rules change yearly, so we’ll confirm the current status with the NPS before we go. The second is bears. Grizzlies are present everywhere here, which means bear spray and noise on the trail before anything else, and a check of the trailhead board, since some Many Glacier trails can require hiking in groups.
One caveat we’re watching: Many Glacier Hotel closed for rehabilitation in 2025, with a 2026 reopening planned, so the dining and camping in that valley may carry limits. We’ll confirm what’s open before we book, and keep Glacier Park Lodge at East Glacier Park and the west-side lodges as the backups. For now the plan starts small: fill the water, pack the bear spray, and walk the cedars while we wait for the high road to clear.
I
Basic info
- Established
- 1910
- Area
- 1,013,126 acres
- Visitors (2024)
- 3,208,755
- Elevation
- 3,150–10,466 ft
- Designation
- National Park (1910)
- Designation
- Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park (1932)
II
Logistics
Seasons
Spring
- Lower elevations and the west side open up while the high country stays under snow. Going-to-the-Sun Road usually does not reach Logan Pass by car until late June at the earliest; plowing starts in April and takes months.
- 30s to 60s °F. Black bears emerge and are commonly seen on the Sun Road shoulders.
- Drive the lower west side from Apgar, walk the Trail of the Cedars, and watch the road-opening updates on the NPS page.
Summer
- Full operation. Peak crowds run from the first week of July through Labor Day. The Logan Pass lot fills by 8 a.m.
- 60s to 80s °F by day, cool at the passes. Wildflowers peak at Logan Pass in mid-July; wildfire smoke can arrive in August.
- Drive Going-to-the-Sun west to east in the morning, and stay at least one night on the east side for the different ecosystem and the Blackfeet side of the divide.
Fall
- Going-to-the-Sun Road closes in full by mid-October. Many Glacier and Two Medicine roads run into October.
- 30s to 60s °F. West-side larch turn gold in late September; bear activity is high during huckleberry season.
- Quieter than midsummer, with gold larch on the west side and elk and mountain-goat rut on the slopes.
Winter
- Most roads close. Apgar and West Glacier stay reachable; most facilities shut.
- Teens to 30s °F with deep snow at elevation.
- Cross-country skiing on the lower Sun Road. The park is mostly inaccessible by car November through April.
With kids
Glacier works best for a family that splits its days across the divide: the old-growth boardwalk and swim beach on the west side, the wildlife valleys and historic lodges on the east. Going-to-the-Sun Road and the Logan Pass meadows are reachable by car, and the two short walks worth building a day around (Trail of the Cedars, Hidden Lake Overlook) are both under three miles. Grizzly bears are present everywhere, so the bear-spray habit and the in-car plan for crowded lots come first.
- Junior Ranger booklets are free at every visitor center; the park also offers a Blackfeet-partnered Iinnii (buffalo) booklet.
- Trail of the Cedars (0.9-mile accessible boardwalk loop, per NPS) is the easiest walk for small kids; continue to Avalanche Lake for the standard west-side family day.
- Hidden Lake Overlook (2.7 miles round-trip from Logan Pass, about 460 ft of gain) is the highest-elevation easy walk, with near-reliable mountain goats.
- Apgar Village has a swim beach on Lake McDonald; the Glacier Park Boat Company runs kid-paced one-hour cruises.
- Grizzly bears are present everywhere. Carry bear spray (the park sells it, outfitters rent it) and check trailhead boards for group-hiking requirements.
- Logan Pass parking fills by 8 a.m. in summer; a new 2026 ticketed shuttle to Logan Pass runs via Recreation.gov.
Accessibility
Several of the park's best-known stops are reachable from the car or the road. The Trail of the Cedars boardwalk is fully accessible, the Wild Goose Island and Logan Pass overlooks are roadside, and the historic lodges sit at trailhead and shoreline level. Most named trails beyond the boardwalk are natural tread with real elevation, and the high country is snowbound much of the year.
- Trail of the Cedars is a fully accessible 0.9-mile boardwalk loop through old-growth forest on the west side.
- Wild Goose Island Overlook is a roadside pullout on Going-to-the-Sun Road, no hike.
- Logan Pass Visitor Center and its meadows sit at the road's high point, 6,646 ft; the lot fills by 8 a.m. in summer.
- Going-to-the-Sun Road typically opens end to end only late June or early July through mid-October; cellular service is nearly absent outside West Glacier, Apgar, and St. Mary.
Things you can't miss
Natural places
Going-to-the-Sun Road↗
The 50-mile road across the park, completed in 1932 and a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark since 1985. It climbs from the western valleys, the country of the Séliš (Salish), Ql̓ispé (Pend d'Oreille), and Ktunaxa (Kootenai), over the Continental Divide at Logan Pass and down into Amskapi Pikuni (Blackfeet) country on the east, the range the Blackfeet call the Backbone of the World per NPS. It usually opens end to end only late June or early July through mid-October; plowing the high section starts in April and takes months. NPS guidance is to drive it west to east in the morning for the sun angle and easier parking at Logan Pass.
Grinnell Glacier↗
One of the park's most-measured glaciers, above the Many Glacier valley in Amskapi Pikuni country. The park held about 80 glaciers (each at least 0.1 square kilometer) at the Little Ice Age peak around 1850; the most recent USGS inventory counts 37 named glaciers, and USGS projects most will be functionally gone by mid-century. The ice and its meltwater lake sit at the end of a 10.0-mile round-trip hike from Many Glacier, about 7.4 miles round-trip with the two boat ferries across Swiftcurrent and Josephine lakes. It is the clearest in-person look at the park's ice loss.
Lake McDonald↗
The largest lake in the park, on the west side in Séliš, Ql̓ispé, and Ktunaxa country, where the western valleys served as hunting grounds and trans-divide trade corridors. The multicolored stones along the shoreline take their reds and greens from their mineral content, not from algae. Apgar Village sits at the foot of the lake with a swim beach, and the Glacier Park Boat Company runs scenic cruises from the southeast shore.
St. Mary Lake and Wild Goose Island↗
The second-largest lake in the park, on the east side at the Blackfeet (Amskapi Pikuni) border. The Wild Goose Island Overlook, a pullout on Going-to-the-Sun Road, frames a single small island against the east-side peaks; it is the standard sunrise stop on the east end of the road. The lake also opens the aerial credits of Stanley Kubrick's 1980 film The Shining, which is cultural color rather than a park fact.
Our pick for nearby attractions
Native America Speaks↗
An in-park evening program in which Blackfeet (Amskapi Pikuni), Salish, Pend d'Oreille, and Kootenai presenters share their own history and culture in their own words. Running every summer since 1982, it is the longest-running Indigenous speaker series in the National Park Service. Free talks at major lodges and visitor centers, summer only. The presenter bios at the NPS NAS page use the endonym Amskapi Pikuni. The land here is in current use, not historical use only.
Our pick for places to stay
Many Glacier Hotel↗
A Great Northern Railway hotel built in 1914 and 1915 on Swiftcurrent Lake in the Many Glacier valley, Amskapi Pikuni country; a National Historic Landmark, and bears are commonly visible from the deck. The hotel closed for major rehabilitation in 2025 with a planned 2026 reopening; confirm operating status before booking, since several Many Glacier services are in flux for 2025 to 2026. Rooms book up to 13 months ahead.
Viewpoints and camping
Hidden Lake Overlook↗
A 2.7-mile round-trip from the Logan Pass Visitor Center at 6,646 feet, boardwalk for the first section then natural tread, with about 460 feet of gain. It is the highest-elevation easy walk in the park, with near-reliable mountain-goat sightings, and the alpine meadow wildflowers peak in mid-July. Snow can linger across the boardwalk into July. The Logan Pass lot fills by 8 a.m. in summer.
Apgar and the Lake McDonald shoreline↗
A swim beach and shallow shoreline at the foot of the largest lake in the park, west side near the West Glacier entrance. The multicolored shoreline stones sit just under the surface here. The lower west side has year-round vehicle access, and the village holds a visitor center, boat rentals, and a camp store, which makes it the easy base for families on the west side.
Trails worth the time
Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake↗
Trail of the Cedars is a 0.9-mile boardwalk loop, fully accessible, running through old-growth western red cedar and black cottonwood at the easternmost edge of the Pacific maritime forest. Continuing to Avalanche Lake makes about 4.6 miles round-trip with roughly 740 feet of gain. West side, in Séliš, Ql̓ispé, and Ktunaxa country. The accessible loop is the easiest walk in the park for small kids, and the lake hike is the standard west-side family day.
Grinnell Glacier Trail↗
A 10.0-mile round-trip from Many Glacier with roughly 2,600 feet of gain, or about 7.4 miles round-trip using the two boat ferries across Swiftcurrent and Josephine lakes. The ferries (reserve ahead with the Glacier Park Boat Company) cut about 2.6 miles round-trip and 135 feet of gain, which can put it within reach of steadier older kids. It ends at the foot of Grinnell Glacier and its meltwater lake, in Amskapi Pikuni country. NPS rates it strenuous.
Highline Trail↗
An 11.8-mile point-to-point from Logan Pass to The Loop, with a short shuttle or hitch back. It runs along the Garden Wall, an arête of the Continental Divide, the Backbone of the World, with mountain goats and bighorn sheep common. The first stretch crosses a narrow ledge with a hand cable, so it sits on the older-kid and adult list, not the small-kid one. Best done northbound from Logan Pass to lose elevation into The Loop. NPS rates it strenuous.
Our pick for food and drink
Glacier Park Lodge dining room↗
The dining room sits under the Douglas-fir timber columns of the 1913 Great Northern Railway lodge at East Glacier Park, on the edge of the Blackfeet Reservation near the Two Medicine entrance. It is the realistic sit-down option for families coming in from the Blackfeet side and the east-side backup if Many Glacier dining is closed for rehabilitation. The pictured building holds the dining room inside.
Our pick for things to do nearby
Glacier Park Boat Company tours and goat-spotting↗
Historic wooden launches run scenic tours on Lake McDonald, Two Medicine, Swiftcurrent, and Josephine lakes; some are kid-paced one-hour cruises, and the Many Glacier boats double as hike shortcuts toward Grinnell Glacier. Tours run in both Blackfeet (east) and Séliš, Ql̓ispé, and Ktunaxa (west) country. The mountain goat is the park's signature animal and is near-reliable at Logan Pass and Hidden Lake, as in the pictured goat at Logan Pass.
Common questions
- When should we go with kids?
- Mid-July through August for the full park: Going-to-the-Sun Road is usually open end to end only late June or early July through mid-October, and the Logan Pass wildflowers peak in mid-July. Late September brings gold larch and thinner crowds on the west side, with the trade-off of a road that closes in full by mid-October.
- Do we need a reservation to drive in?
- The vehicle reservation system is paused for 2026, but all visitors still need a park entry pass, and a new ticketed shuttle to Logan Pass runs via Recreation.gov with a $1 processing fee. These rules change year to year, so confirm the current status on the NPS page before you lock dates.
- Should we stay on the east side or the west side?
- Both if you can. The west side (Apgar, Lake McDonald) has the swim beach and the accessible cedar boardwalk; the east side (Many Glacier, Two Medicine, St. Mary) has the wildlife valleys, the historic lodges, and the Blackfeet side of the divide. Staying at least one night on the east side is the common advice.
- How bad are the bears, really?
- Grizzly bears are present everywhere in the park. Carry bear spray (the park sells it and local outfitters rent it), make noise on the trail, and check the trailhead board: some Many Glacier trails like Iceberg Lake can require hiking in groups during bear-travel season.
- What is happening with Many Glacier in 2025 and 2026?
- Many Glacier Hotel closed for major rehabilitation in 2025 with a planned 2026 reopening, and related services in the valley may carry limits. Confirm operating status with the concessioner before booking. Glacier Park Lodge dining at East Glacier Park and the west-side lodges are the rehabilitation-proof fallbacks.
- Is there cell service in the park?
- Nearly none outside West Glacier, Apgar, and St. Mary villages. Download maps, reservations, and shuttle tickets before you drive in.
III
History
Who shaped this place
Indigenous nations
- Blackfeet Nation (Amskapi Pikuni) — The east side is Amskapi Pikuni country; the Blackfeet call the Rocky Mountain front the Backbone of the World, documented verbatim by the NPS east-side history page. The endonym Amskapi Pikuni is documented by NPS on the Native America Speaks presenter bios (nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/nas-presenters.htm). The Blackfeet Reservation borders the park to the east.
- Séliš (Salish) — West-side valleys are Séliš country; the endonym Séliš is documented on the NPS article on Pend d'Oreille and Salish regalia. The Salish are one of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes.
- Ql̓ispé (Pend d'Oreille) — West-side valleys are also Ql̓ispé country; the endonym Ql̓ispé is documented on the same NPS regalia article. The Pend d'Oreille are one of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes.
- Ktunaxa (Kootenai) — The Kootenai used the western valleys and the trans-divide passes for hunting and trade. Ktunaxa is the endonym the Ktunaxa Nation uses for itself.
Advocates
- George Bird Grinnell↗ — Editor and lobbyist, the "Father of Glacier National Park"
Editor of Forest and Stream and a founder of the Boone and Crockett Club, Grinnell first traveled the region in 1885 and spent 25 years documenting it and lobbying Congress for protection. Grinnell Glacier carries his name. He documented and lobbied; the Blackfeet, Salish, Pend d'Oreille, and Kootenai were already here.
- Louis W. Hill — Great Northern Railway president
Hill bankrolled the park's hotel system, Glacier Park Lodge, Many Glacier Hotel, Lake McDonald Lodge, and the backcountry chalets, and marketed the park hard under the "See America First" campaign. The lodges shaped how a century of visitors moved through the park.
- Senator Thomas Carter — U.S. Senator (R-MT)
Carter sponsored the Senate bill that established Glacier National Park, carrying the 1910 legislation through Congress.
Detractors
- The Blackfeet Nation↗ — Lost the most, advocated the least
The Blackfeet did not lobby for the park and lost the most by it. The 1895 sale of the eastern strip was forced by hunger; treaty rights to hunt, fish, and gather were retained on paper but extinguished in practice when the park banned hunting. Fights over those rights, particularly in the adjacent Badger-Two Medicine area, continue.
- Mining interests — Late 1800s to early 1900s
The Ceded Strip was also called the Mineral Strip because miners had pressed for access, prospecting for copper, gold, and oil. Several pre-existing claims persisted into the park era.
- Local ranchers — Early park era
East-side ranchers lost summer grazing access when the park was drawn around the front of the range.
Timeline
Blackfeet cede the eastern strip under duress
The eastern half of the future park was carved from land ceded by the Blackfeet Nation in the 1895 Agreement (the Ceded Strip, also called the Mineral Strip): about 800,000 acres for $1.5 million, forced by hunger. The Blackfeet reserved hunting, fishing, and timber rights as long as the land stayed public, rights that became the basis of long-running disputes after the park banned hunting.
Glacier National Park established
Congress established Glacier as the tenth national park on May 11, 1910, signed by President William Howard Taft, after George Bird Grinnell documented and lobbied for the region across 25 years. The Blackfeet, Salish, Pend d'Oreille, and Kootenai were already here; this was not a discovery.
Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park
Glacier joined with Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta to form the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, the first international peace park in the world. The same year, Going-to-the-Sun Road was completed across the park.
Going-to-the-Sun Road named an engineering landmark
The 50-mile Going-to-the-Sun Road, completed in 1932, was designated a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
The Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, following its 1976 designation as a Biosphere Reserve.
Record visitation, 3,305,512
Glacier set its all-time visitation record at 3,305,512, part of a sustained run above 2.9 million visitors a year.
About 3.2 million visitors
Glacier drew 3,208,755 visitors, the second-highest year in park history, with record numbers in May, September, and October as visitation spread into the shoulder seasons.