AK

Katmai National Park and Preserve

Bears fishing the Brooks Falls ledge and a 1912 ash valley, reached by float plane from King Salmon onto Naknek Lake.

Established

We have not been to Katmai, and the way in is the first thing to plan around. There is no road to the park interior. The realistic route is a commercial flight from Anchorage to King Salmon, about an hour, then a float plane onto Naknek Lake, about 25 minutes, weather permitting. July fog bumps those flights often. From the Brooks Camp beach it is a 1.2-mile boardwalk to the falls, and bears hold right-of-way the whole way.

The headline is Brooks Falls: a roughly six-foot ledge where sockeye salmon stack up to jump and brown bears fish the lip and the plunge pool from an elevated platform with railings. That platform is why the NPS treats Brooks as a lower-risk place to bring kids than the open coast. Before anyone enters the developed area, all ages complete a short bear school. The other half of the park is the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, the 40-square-mile valley filled by the June 6, 1912 Novarupta eruption, the largest of the 20th century by volume. The same ashfall emptied the Sugpiaq villages of the peninsula, including Savonoski on Naknek Lake. Sugpiaq means “a real person.” These are Sugpiaq homelands, and descendants live across southwest Alaska today.

The family-honest version is small and front-loaded. The 60-person campground opens for reservations on January 7 at noon Eastern and sells out in minutes for July; Brooks Lodge runs a separate lottery a year and a half ahead. There is no open food in the developed area, almost no maintained trail beyond the boardwalk, and the bear cams on explore.org are the at-home companion Big and Little could watch before we ever board a plane.

When we reach the Alaska Peninsula, the plan starts from the water. There is no road to walk in on, only a lake to land on and a ledge full of bears at the end of a short boardwalk.

I

Basic info

Established
1980
Area
4,093,077 acres
Visitors (2024)
36,230
Designation
National Monument (1918)
Designation
National Park and Preserve (1980)

II

Logistics

Seasons

Spring

  • Brooks Camp opens around June 1; May is shoulder season with reduced services. Few bears are at the falls before the salmon arrive.
  • 40s to 60s °F, often wet and windy. Snow lingers on the high peaks and the Valley.
  • Early-season visitors come for the volcanic landscape more than the bears. Sockeye start to show in late June.

Summer

  • The headline window. The sockeye run peaks in the first three weeks of July, and the Brooks Falls platforms are at their busiest.
  • 50s to 60s °F, frequent rain and fog. July fog routinely delays float-plane hops.
  • Brooks Camp is the center of gravity in July: bears fishing the falls, mandatory bear school, and the daily Valley tour. Book far ahead.

Fall

  • The chum run and fat-bear season run into mid-September. Brooks Camp typically closes around September 17, with reduced-service camping after.
  • 40s to 50s °F, cooler and clearer than midsummer, bugs mostly gone.
  • Bears at peak weight before denning, thinner crowds than July, and the second photogenic window. Fat Bear Week falls in this stretch.

Winter

  • Essentially no access. Brooks Camp is closed and the park is dormant.
  • Cold, dark, and stormy on the Alaska Peninsula.
  • The King Salmon Visitor Center keeps reduced winter hours; the park interior is not a winter destination.

With kids

Katmai is a fly-in, boat-and-float park built around one developed node, Brooks Camp, reached by a commercial flight from Anchorage to King Salmon and then a float plane to Naknek Lake. The bear-viewing platforms are elevated, which is why the NPS treats Brooks as a lower-risk place to bring kids than the open coast. Every visitor of every age must pass a short bear school before entering the developed area, and bears have right-of-way on every trail. The planning is front-loaded: permits open in January and the July dates sell out in minutes.

  • Every visitor must complete a bear school orientation at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center before entering the developed area. All ages, no exceptions.
  • The Brooks Falls platforms are elevated boardwalks with railings, safer for kids than ground-level coastal viewing where a guide sets the distance.
  • Junior Ranger books can be earned at the King Salmon Visitor Center as well as at Brooks Camp, useful if float-plane weather strands you in town.
  • No open food or drink except water in the developed area; everything goes in the bear-resistant food caches. Plan meals around that.
  • Bears have right-of-way on the trails. A 1.2-mile walk to the falls can take much longer when a bear blocks the boardwalk.
  • The explore.org Brooks Falls bear cams are a strong at-home companion before and after a trip; kids can learn individual bears by sight.

Accessibility

There is no road into the park for private vehicles and almost no maintained trail system. Access is by float plane to Naknek Lake; from the Brooks Camp beach, the developed area sits on flat ground near the shore. The bear-viewing platforms are reached by an elevated boardwalk, but getting to Katmai at all requires small-aircraft travel that limits who can come.

  • Access is by float plane onto Naknek Lake. There is no road in and no drive-up entrance.
  • The Brooks Falls boardwalk to the elevated platforms is flat, about 1.2 miles round trip from camp, but bear closures can hold you in place.
  • The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes tour is a long guided bus day on a 23-mile gravel road; the optional valley-floor hike is steep on loose ash.
  • Coastal bear viewing at places like Hallo Bay is ground-level on soft sedge and tidal flats, reached only by a separate float-plane charter.

Things you can't miss

Natural places

  1. Brooks Falls

    End of the 1.2-mile Brooks Falls trail from Brooks Camp.

    A roughly six-foot ledge on the Brooks River where sockeye salmon stack up trying to jump it and brown bears fish the lip, the plunge pool, and the far bank. The Brooks River corridor is the Brooks River Archeological District, a National Historic Landmark designated in 1993 with semi-subterranean house depressions near the bear-viewing trail; this has been a Sugpiaq and Yup'ik fishing place far longer than the platforms have stood. Reached on foot from Brooks Camp by a flat 1.2-mile round-trip boardwalk, with bears holding right-of-way the whole way. The NPS treats the elevated platforms here as a lower-risk place to bring kids than the open coast.

  2. Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes

    End of the 23-mile Valley road, by guided bus from Brooks Camp.

    A 40-square-mile valley filled by the June 6, 1912 Novarupta eruption with ash and pumice up to 700 feet deep, the largest volcanic event of the 20th century by volume, roughly 30 times the 1980 Mount St. Helens eruption per the USGS Alaska Volcano Observatory. Robert Griggs named it in 1916 for the fumarole steam he saw; almost all the fumaroles are extinct now. The same ashfall emptied the Sugpiaq villages of Katmai, Douglas, and Savonoski, a displacement, not a curiosity. Reached by a daily guided bus along the 23-mile Valley road from Brooks Camp.

  3. Novarupta lava dome

    On the floor of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes; no trail.

    The actual vent of the 1912 eruption: a plug of lava about 1,300 feet across and 200 feet high that sealed the conduit after the magma chamber emptied, per the USGS Alaska Volcano Observatory. Six miles away, Mount Katmai's summit collapsed into a caldera at the same time as the chamber drained beneath it, holding a lake now about 800 feet deep. The dome is a backpacking destination across open ash. No trail, no services.

  4. Hallo Bay coast

    Katmai's Pacific coast, opposite Brooks; float-plane access only.

    A Pacific-coast sedge meadow and tidal flat on the far side of the park from Brooks. Bears graze the sedge in early summer and dig clams at low tide, per NPS bear viewing. Access is by float-plane day trip from Homer or Kodiak with a licensed guide, which bypasses Brooks Camp entirely. Viewing here is ground-level, closer and less structured than the elevated Brooks platforms, and a guide sets the distance instead of a railing.

Nearby attractions

  1. King Salmon Visitor Center

    0 mi from park · King Salmon, the commercial gateway; a regional Naknek Lake view shown here, not the building itself.

    A joint federal facility in King Salmon, the commercial-flight gateway, open year-round with reduced winter hours. The interpretive exhibits cover the 1912 eruption and the Sugpiaq and Yup'ik communities of the Bristol Bay region, per NPS. The best place to learn the eruption story if float-plane weather delays the hop to Brooks, and the Junior Ranger book can be earned here without entering the park interior. About a one-hour flight from Anchorage.

  2. Brooks Camp Visitor Center and bear school

    0 mi from park · Brooks Camp, on the Naknek Lake shore.

    Every visitor who steps off the float plane at Brooks Camp must complete a bear school orientation before entering the developed area, all ages included, per NPS. It runs through bear-distance rules, right-of-way on the trails, and the food-locker system: no open food or drink except water in the developed area. The visitor center sits inside the Brooks River Archeological District National Historic Landmark. Rangers pitch it well for kids. No one skips it.

Places to stay

  1. Brooks Camp Campground

    Campground · Recreation.gov; rolling window (May/June open Jan 7 ET, July/Aug open Feb 7), July sells out in minutes.

    A 60-person campground ringed by an electric fence, peak fee $18 per person per night plus a $6 reservation fee, maximum group size 6. Reservations open on a rolling window on Recreation.gov: May and June dates open January 7 at noon Eastern, July and August open February 7, and the July dates sell out in minutes. Bear-resistant food caches and a cooking shelter are provided; no open food in the developed area. This is the realistic family stay if the lodge lottery does not land.

  2. Brooks Lodge

    Lodge · Katmailand lottery roughly 18 months ahead; June to mid-September.

    The only roofed lodging inside the park, operated by Katmailand on the Naknek Lake shore steps from the bear-viewing trail, per NPS. Rooms go by a lottery roughly 18 months ahead, and even the lottery is oversubscribed. Open in the June to mid-September season. The photo shown here is a Brooks Camp shoreline view, not the lodge exterior, which is thin on the commons.

Viewpoints and camping

  1. Brooks Falls viewing platforms

    End of the 1.2-mile Brooks Falls trail from Brooks Camp.

    The Falls Platform looks straight at the jumping salmon and the bears that catch them; the Riffles Platform sits downstream. Both are elevated boardwalks with railings, per NPS. During the July sockeye peak a wait-list and a time limit keep the Falls Platform from overcrowding, and a Brooks Camp permit gives priority. The single safest place to watch wild brown bears fish with kids in the park.

  2. Brooks Camp shoreline

    Brooks Camp beach, where float planes land on Naknek Lake.

    The beach view across Naknek Lake is the first and last thing a Brooks visitor sees, per NPS. Bears walk it. Float-plane arrivals and departures happen here, so it doubles as the camp's transit hub, the calm-water counterpoint to the falls. A place to stand while you wait for a flight slot or a bear to clear the trail ahead.

Our pick for trails worth the time

  1. Brooks Falls trail

    1.2 mi · 30 ft gain · ~0.75 hr · easy

    The walk from Brooks Camp to the Falls Platform, flat boardwalk and packed forest path, per NPS. Family-doable on its own terms. The variable is wildlife, not grade. Bears hold right-of-way, and a single closure can add 20-plus minutes of waiting either way. This is one of only two developed walking routes most visitors use in a park with essentially no trail system.

Our pick for things to do nearby

  1. Coastal bear viewing by float plane

    Hallo Bay and Geographic Harbor; float plane from Homer or Kodiak.

    Guided day trips by float plane from Homer or Kodiak land on Katmai's Pacific coast for ground-level bear viewing in sedge meadows and tidal flats, the guide setting the distance, per NPS. A way to see bears that skips the Brooks permit competition entirely, roughly $700 to $900 per person, weather-dependent and frequently bumped by July fog. Younger kids do this only with a guide comfortable taking them; it is closer and less railed than Brooks.

Common questions

When should we go with kids?
The first three weeks of July for the sockeye run and the most bears at Brooks Falls, or early September for the chum run and the fat bears, when it is cooler and the bugs are gone. May is too early; the salmon and most of the bears have not arrived.
How do we actually get to Brooks Camp?
Fly Anchorage to King Salmon on a commercial flight, about an hour, then take a float plane from King Salmon onto Naknek Lake, about 25 minutes. From the Brooks Camp beach it is a 1.2-mile walk to the falls platforms. Float-plane flights are weather-dependent, and July fog can bump the schedule.
What is bear school?
A short, mandatory orientation at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center that every visitor of every age must complete before entering the developed area. It covers bear-distance rules, right-of-way on the trails, and the food-locker system. Rangers pitch it well for kids.
How do we get a permit or a place to stay?
The 60-person Brooks Camp Campground books on Recreation.gov on a rolling window: May and June dates open January 7 at noon Eastern, July and August open February 7, and September and October open March 7. The July dates sell out in minutes. Peak fee is $18 per person per night plus a $6 reservation fee, maximum group size 6. Brooks Lodge, the only roofed lodging, runs a separate lottery about 18 months ahead through Katmailand.
Can the kids eat in the park?
No open food or drink except water is allowed in the developed area; it all goes in the bear-resistant caches. The Brooks Lodge dining hall is the only prepared food inside the park, buffet-style and run by Katmailand. Campers cook in the provided shelter.
Are there trails to hike with kids?
Almost none. Katmai has no road system for visitors and very few maintained trails. The main walk is the flat 1.2-mile Brooks Falls boardwalk; the only other developed route is the steep valley-floor hike tied to the daily bus tour. Plan around bears and water travel, not a trail map.

III

History

Who shaped this place

Indigenous nations

  • Sugpiaq / Alutiiq — The Pacific Yup'ik people of the Alaska Peninsula and Kodiak archipelago whose homelands include Katmai. Sugpiaq joins suk ("person") with the suffix -piaq ("real" or "genuine") to mean "a real person," per the Alutiiq Museum, the Kodiak-based Alutiiq cultural and language authority. The 1912 eruption emptied villages including Savonoski on Naknek Lake; descendants live across southwest Alaska today.
  • Central Alaskan Yup'ik — Yup'ik communities to the north and west of the park hold subsistence ties to the Bristol Bay region around King Salmon and Naknek.
  • Bristol Bay Native Corporation — Alaska Native regional corporation through which people of Alutiiq and Yup'ik descent with ties to the area take part in regional decisions.
  • Bristol Bay Native Association — Regional tribal consortium serving the Bristol Bay villages whose subsistence network the 1912 eruption broke apart.

Advocates

  • Robert F. Griggs — Botanist and National Geographic Society explorer

    Led the 1915 to 1919 expeditions into the ash valley and named it the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. His National Geographic coverage drove the 1918 monument proclamation. He documented and named the valley; he did not discover it.

  • Mike Fitz — Former Katmai ranger, explore.org resident naturalist

    Started the fat-bear vote at Katmai in 2014 that grew into Fat Bear Week, author of The Bears of Brooks Falls (2021). His work on the webcams turned a low-visitation park into a national audience.

Timeline

  1. Novarupta erupts

    On June 6, 1912, Novarupta erupted on the Alaska Peninsula, the largest volcanic event of the 20th century by volume, roughly 30 times the 1980 Mount St. Helens eruption per the USGS Alaska Volcano Observatory. Ash filled a 40-square-mile valley up to 700 feet deep, and Mount Katmai's summit collapsed into a caldera. The ashfall emptied Sugpiaq villages on the peninsula, including Savonoski on Naknek Lake.

    kind:event·Source

  2. Griggs names the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes

    Robert Fiske Griggs led National Geographic Society expeditions into the ash valley and named it the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes for the fumarole steam rising through the fresh tuff. He documented and named the valley; the peninsula had been Sugpiaq home for millennia before 1912.

    kind:event·Source

  3. Katmai National Monument proclaimed

    President Woodrow Wilson signed Presidential Proclamation 1487 on September 24, 1918, creating Katmai National Monument. The first protection was aimed at the volcanic landscape, not the bears.

    kind:designation·Source

  4. Hoover expands the monument

    President Herbert Hoover enlarged the monument by about 1.6 million acres to take in Naknek Lake and more of the bear country, citing brown bear, moose, and other wildlife. Franklin D. Roosevelt later adjusted the boundaries in 1936 and 1942.

    kind:expansion·Source

  5. Redesignated a national park and preserve

    The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, Public Law 96-487, signed by President Jimmy Carter on December 2, 1980, redesignated Katmai as a national park and preserve at 4,093,077 acres.

    kind:designation·Source

  6. Fat Bear Week begins

    Katmai ranger Mike Fitz started a single-day fat-bear vote that grew into Fat Bear Week in partnership with the explore.org brown-bear webcams. The 2025 cycle drew more than 1.5 million votes, far beyond the park's own in-person visitation.

    kind:event·Source

  7. About 36,230 visits

    Katmai recorded 36,230 visits in 2024 per NPS IRMA, tiny next to its cultural reach. Most of that visitation concentrates at Brooks Camp in July and September; the rest of the park sees almost no one.

    kind:event·Source