Washington
Olympic National Park
Three parks in one: alpine ridge, rain forest, and wild Pacific coast, hours apart on the US 101 loop.
Established
We have not stood under the Hall of Mosses yet. This page is the plan for when we do, written from the maps, the NPS pages, and the tide books we are reading ahead of the drive. The first thing every source agrees on is the one fact that reorders the whole trip: Olympic is three parks in one body. Hurricane Ridge sits up in the alpine, the Hoh and Quinault hold temperate rain forest, and Rialto, Ozette, and Ruby line the Pacific. No road crosses the park. US 101 wraps the outside, so a family does one ecosystem a day and drives hours between them.
The park grew out of elk. Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed Mount Olympus National Monument in 1909 to guard the summer range of the animals that now carry his name, and the rain forests stayed in the national forest, open to timber, for another three decades. Franklin Roosevelt signed the park into being on June 29, 1938, after touring the peninsula himself and insisting the western valleys be included over the Forest Service’s objection. The land is the homeland of eight treaty nations, the Lower Elwha Klallam, Jamestown S’Klallam, Port Gamble S’Klallam, Skokomish, Quinault, Hoh, Quileute, and Makah, who hold treaty fishing, hunting, and gathering rights here today and signed a cooperative pact with the park in 2008.
A few rules we are pre-loading so we do not learn them the hard way. The tide table is a safety tool, not a tip: at Rialto, Ozette, and Ruby, rising water can cut off a headland and strand you, so we will buy a tide book at the first visitor center. The Hurricane Ridge Day Lodge burned in May 2023, so there is no food or warm room at the top of that road; we pack our own and bring layers. And the Hoh valley is a cell dead zone, so the maps come down offline before we turn off the highway.
What we want most is the short one: the Hall of Mosses, eight-tenths of a mile where bigleaf maples hang with club moss over a floor of fern and nurse logs. We will see whether Little fills a pocket with rain-forest rocks before we reach the first nurse log.
I
Basic info
- Established
- 1938
- Area
- 922,651 acres
- Visitors (2024)
- 3,717,267
- Elevation
- 0–7,980 ft
- Designation
- Mount Olympus National Monument (1909)
- Designation
- National Park (1938)
II
Logistics
Seasons
Spring
- Snow lingers in the alpine into June; the rain forest and coast are open. Gray whales migrate past the coast, peaking in April.
- 40s to 60s °F at low elevation, colder and snowbound up high. Wildflowers begin late May at Lake Crescent and the valleys.
- A rain-forest and coast season while Hurricane Ridge thaws. Carry rain gear; the west side stays wet.
Summer
- The driest, busiest stretch. July to early September brings peak crowds to Hurricane Ridge, the Hoh, and Lake Crescent.
- 60s to 70s °F inland, cooler on the foggy coast. Mornings on the beaches are often socked in until midday.
- The one window with all three worlds open at once. The Hoh Rain Forest Road can back up for hours; reach the gate at opening or after 3 p.m.
Fall
- Crowds thin. Coho salmon spawn at Salmon Cascades on the Sol Duc Road in mid-October, and Roosevelt elk bugle in the Hoh and Quinault valleys.
- 40s to 60s °F, rain returning to the west side. The rain forest moss deepens in color.
- The quietest good-weather season. Sol Duc Road closes past Salmon Cascades once the snow comes.
Winter
- The rain forests are at their wettest, and the moss is at its deepest green, with few people on the trails. Hurricane Ridge Road opens only on plowed days; check the park first.
- 30s to 50s °F at low elevation, deep snow up high. Pacific storms drive the coastal storm-watching season.
- Moss, mist, and storm watching on the coast. The high trailheads on Obstruction Point and Deer Park roads are closed.
With kids
Olympic is three parks in one body, and the single most useful planning fact for a family is that they do not connect. Alpine (Hurricane Ridge), temperate rain forest (Hoh and Quinault), and the Pacific coast (Rialto, Ozette, Ruby) sit hours apart, and no road crosses the park. US 101 wraps the outside, so plan one ecosystem per day. The Hall of Mosses in the Hoh is a 0.8-mile loop under maples hung with club moss, flat enough for short legs, which makes it the easy first walk.
- Plan one ecosystem per day. Hurricane Ridge, the Hoh, and the coast are not a loop; US 101 wraps the outside and no road crosses the park.
- Hall of Mosses (Hoh, 0.8-mile loop) and Sol Duc Falls (1.6-mile round-trip, mostly flat) are the easiest rain-forest payoffs.
- Carry a tide table for any beach walk. Rising tide can cut off headland passage at Rialto, Ozette, and Ruby; visitor centers sell tide books.
- Junior Ranger booklets are free at every staffed visitor center: Port Angeles, Hoh, Kalaloch, Quinault, and Hurricane Ridge in season.
- The Hurricane Ridge Day Lodge burned on May 7, 2023. There is no food service or indoor warming shelter at the top; pack your own and dress in layers.
- Cell coverage is poor across the park and nonexistent in the Hoh valley. Download maps and reservations before you drive in.
Accessibility
Several headline stops put a family into the landscape from the car or a short paved walk. Hurricane Ridge delivers a paved alpine overlook a few steps from the parking lot. Ruby Beach is a short walk from the US 101 pullout to sea stacks and tidepools. The Hall of Mosses and Sol Duc Falls are flat-to-gentle forest loops. Beyond those, most named trails are unimproved tread, and the coast involves cobble, driftwood, and tide timing.
- Hurricane Ridge overlook: paved and stroller-passable from the lot, with Mount Olympus and the Bailey Range across the Elwha valley.
- Sol Duc Falls: 1.6-mile round-trip, mostly flat through old-growth, much of it stroller-passable to the footbridge view.
- Ruby Beach: a short walk from the US 101 pullout drops onto the beach; the sand and driftwood beyond are not wheelchair-friendly.
- Hall of Mosses: a 0.8-mile loop on packed natural tread, gentle but not paved. The coast trails (Rialto, Ozette) are cobble and beach, tide-dependent.
Things you can't miss
Natural places
Hoh Rain Forest (Hall of Mosses)↗
One of the largest temperate rain forests in North America, where Sitka spruce, western hemlock, and bigleaf maple stand draped in club moss. The Hoh averages about 140 inches of rain a year per NPS, among the wettest places in the contiguous United States. The Hall of Mosses is a 0.8-mile loop, flat and short, and most legs can finish it under an hour. The Hoh Rain Forest Road backs up for hours on summer mornings; reach the gate at opening or after 3 p.m. The valley has no cell coverage. This is the homeland of the Hoh nation, whose reservation sits downstream at the river mouth.
Hurricane Ridge↗
The one place in the park where you reach alpine meadow without a long hike. A 17-mile paved road climbs from Port Angeles to a subalpine ridge at 5,242 feet, with Mount Olympus (7,980 ft) and its glaciers across the Elwha valley, per NPS. Black-tailed deer and Olympic marmots are routine at the meadow edges. The Hurricane Ridge Day Lodge burned on May 7, 2023; the area reopened that June and now runs with no food service or indoor warming shelter at the top, so pack your own and dress in layers. The road is winter-status-variable; check the park before a cold-season drive.
Ruby Beach↗
The easiest coastal access in the park: a short walk from the US 101 pullout drops onto a beach of sea stacks, driftwood, and tidepools at low water, named for the reddish garnet sand. Check a tide table before walking, sold at park visitor centers, because rising tide can cut off headland passage. The tsunami evacuation signs along this coast are not decorative; the Cascadia Subduction Zone sits offshore. See the NPS coast page for current beach conditions.
Sol Duc Falls↗
A three-channel fall on the Sol Duc River, reached by a 1.6-mile round-trip that is mostly flat through old-growth forest, one of the easier waterfall payoffs in the park per NPS. The Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort, a concessioner, runs seasonal mineral soaking pools a short drive back down the road. Salmon Cascades, on the same road, draws spawning coho in mid-October. Sol Duc Road closes past Salmon Cascades in winter.
Lake Crescent↗
A glacially carved lake on US 101 west of Port Angeles, 624 ft deep and unusually clear because the water is low in nitrogen, which starves the algae, per NPS. It is the starting point for the Marymere Falls hike and the home of the historic 1916 Lake Crescent Lodge on the south shore. See the NPS Lake Crescent page.
Rialto Beach (Hole-in-the-Wall)↗
A cobble-and-driftwood beach at the mouth of the Quillayute River near Mora. Hole-in-the-Wall, a sea-arch headland, sits about 1.5 miles up the beach and is only passable at lower tides, the single most tide-dependent kid hike on the coast per the NPS coast page. Bald eagles work the surf line; parking and pit toilets are at the Mora end. Rialto fronts Quileute territory, with the reservation across the river at La Push.
Our pick for nearby attractions
Lake Quinault Lodge and the south-side rain forest↗
A Robert Reamer-designed lodge built in 1926 on the south shore of Lake Quinault, where FDR stayed during his 1937 peninsula tour. The Quinault Rain Forest is the quieter sister to the Hoh, with shorter lines and the world's largest Sitka spruce nearby, per NPS. It makes a good base for families who want rain forest without the Hoh Road queue, and a reliable rainy-day fallback. The valley sits in Quinault Indian Nation territory.
Our pick for places to stay
Lake Quinault Lodge↗
The historic 1926 lodge with a lakefront lawn, a fireplace lobby, and seasonal boat rentals on the south side of the park. It is a concessioner property; book months ahead for summer. The most family-comfortable in-park-adjacent lodging on the south side, and the best fallback when the Hoh is socked in. See the concessioner page for rooms and dates.
Viewpoints and camping
Cape Alava / Ozette coast↗
The wild-coast viewpoint at the west end of the Ozette Triangle, reached on a cedar-boardwalk-and-beach loop of about 9 miles, per the NPS Ozette Loop page. Petroglyphs at Wedding Rocks sit on the beach leg, and the boardwalk is slick when wet. This is the quietest of the wild-coast day hikes, and tide-dependent on the beach segment. Cape Alava overlooks the Ozette village in Makah territory, documented archaeologically in the 1970s and interpreted at the Makah Cultural and Research Center.
Mora / Rialto Beach sunset pullout↗
The Rialto Beach parking area at Mora is a roadside sunset viewpoint over driftwood and sea stacks, with no hiking required, per the NPS coast page. The Mora Campground sits a couple of miles inland on the Quillayute River, first-come and then reservable in summer. Pair the pullout with a low-tide walk toward Hole-in-the-Wall.
Trails worth the time
Hall of Mosses Loop↗
The shortest old-growth walk in the park: bigleaf maples hung with club moss over a forest floor of fern and nurse logs. NPS gives the loop as about 0.8 miles, mostly flat and doable with most kids. It pairs with the adjacent Spruce Nature Trail (1.2 miles) for families who want more.
Marymere Falls↗
The Lake Crescent kid-classic: a forest walk from the Storm King area, under US 101, along Barnes Creek to a 90-foot fern-walled cascade, with two short stair loops at the top for an upper and lower view. NPS gives it as a 1.8-mile round-trip (0.9 mile each way), paved then natural with a short climb to the falls, per the NPS Lake Crescent brochure. See the NPS Lake Crescent page.
Our pick for food and drink
Roosevelt Dining Room, Lake Quinault Lodge↗
The most reliable sit-down meal on the south side, walkable from the lodge rooms and the lake lawn, named for FDR's 1937 stay. The cuisine is Pacific Northwest American; reservations are advised in summer. See the concessioner page. The photo shows the lodge exterior, not the dining room interior.
Things to do nearby
Elwha River restoration↗
The Elwha Dam (removed 2012) and Glines Canyon Dam (removed 2014) came down in what was then the largest dam-removal project in U.S. history, since surpassed by the lower Klamath removals in 2024. Salmon are recolonizing the upper river, per USGS. A family can stand on the old reservoir flats, now growing back in alder and willow, and watch a river that was cut in two run free. The Lower Elwha Klallam Nation, ʔéʔɬx̣ʷaʔ nəxʷsƛ̕áy̕əm̕, "The Strong People," led the push for the removal and the salmon's return.
Roosevelt elk watching↗
The Roosevelt elk is the animal the park was first protected for: Theodore Roosevelt's 1909 Mount Olympus National Monument guarded their summer range, per NPS. Herds are reliable at dawn and dusk in the Hoh and Quinault valleys, and bulls bugle in the fall rut. Give them room; these are large wild animals, not zoo deer.
Common questions
- How should we split our days?
- Plan one ecosystem per day. Olympic is three parks in one: alpine (Hurricane Ridge), rain forest (Hoh and Quinault), and the Pacific coast (Rialto, Ozette, Ruby). They are hours apart, and no road crosses the park. US 101 wraps the outside, so a family cannot do them in a single day.
- Do we need a timed-entry reservation?
- No. Olympic has no general timed-entry system. Wilderness and overnight permits are required year-round, booked through Recreation.gov, but day visits to the road-accessible areas do not need a reservation. Check the park page before you lock dates, since policies can change.
- Is there food at Hurricane Ridge?
- Not at the top. The Hurricane Ridge Day Lodge burned on May 7, 2023, and the area now operates with no food service and no indoor warming shelter at the summit. Pack your own food and water and dress in layers, because weather on the ridge turns fast.
- How dangerous are the tides on the beaches?
- Tide tables are a safety rule here, not a tip. At Rialto (Hole-in-the-Wall), the Ozette beach leg, and Ruby Beach, rising tide can cut off headland passage and strand you. Buy a tide book at a visitor center and plan beach walks around low water. Tsunami evacuation signs along this coast are real; the Cascadia Subduction Zone is offshore.
- Can we drive across the park from Hurricane Ridge to the Hoh?
- No road crosses Olympic. To get from Hurricane Ridge to the Hoh Rain Forest you drive around on US 101, a multi-hour loop. The park is roughly the size of Rhode Island, so budget real drive time between areas.
- Where do we sleep?
- Concessioner lodges (Lake Quinault, Lake Crescent, Sol Duc Hot Springs, Kalaloch) book months ahead. Campgrounds range from reservable (Kalaloch, Mora in summer) to first-come (Heart o' the Hills near Hurricane Ridge). Gateway towns, Port Angeles for the ridge and Forks for the coast, carry motels and groceries.
III
History
Who shaped this place
Indigenous nations
- Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe — One of the eight treaty nations with active treaty rights in the park area. The Nation self-names ʔéʔɬx̣ʷaʔ nəxʷsƛ̕áy̕əm̕, "The Strong People," per its own site, and led the decades-long push to remove the Elwha dams and bring back the salmon.
- Jamestown S'Klallam Tribe — Among the eight treaty nations the NPS names as holding treaty rights on and near park lands.
- Port Gamble S'Klallam Tribe — Among the eight treaty nations the NPS names as holding treaty rights on and near park lands.
- Skokomish Tribe — Among the eight treaty nations the NPS names as holding treaty rights on and near park lands.
- Quinault Indian Nation — The Quinault Valley and the lodge's rain forest sit in Quinault Indian Nation territory; the reservation is downstream toward the coast.
- Hoh Tribe — The Hoh River corridor is the homeland of the Hoh nation, whose reservation sits at the river mouth downstream of the rain forest.
- Quileute Tribe — Rialto Beach fronts Quileute territory; the reservation is across the Quillayute River at La Push.
- Makah Tribe — The Makah self-name Qʷidiččaʔa•tx̌iq, "the Cape People," per the Tribe's own site. The Ozette village near Cape Alava is Makah home, documented archaeologically in the 1970s; its artifacts are held at the Makah Cultural and Research Center in Neah Bay.
Advocates
- Theodore Roosevelt↗ — President, monument proclamation 1909
Proclaimed Mount Olympus National Monument on March 2, 1909 to protect the summer range of the elk that now carry his name. The monument was the foundation the national park grew from three decades later.
- Rosalie Edge and Irving Brant — Emergency Conservation Committee, 1930s
Mobilized national press and lobbied the Roosevelt administration directly for a full park that included the rain forests. Edge was among the most effective conservation lobbyists of the decade.
- Mon C. Wallgren — U.S. Representative (D-WA), 1930s
Sponsored three successive park bills. The third, H.R. 10024, passed in 1938 and created the park.
- Franklin D. Roosevelt↗ — President, signed the park into law 1938
Toured the peninsula in October 1937, a public-relations win for the park campaign, and insisted the western rain forests be included over Forest Service objections. He signed the park into law on June 29, 1938.
Detractors
- U.S. Forest Service — 1930s
Wanted the rain forest kept in Olympic National Forest for timber sales and opposed park status. It lost the fight when FDR insisted on including the western valleys.
- Timber towns and the timber industry — 1930s to 1940s
Forks, Quinault, and Port Angeles feared job losses; many retain anti-park political memory to this day. During World War II, timber lobbyist William B. Greeley pushed to cut Sitka spruce inside the park for aircraft, and some logging occurred from 1942 to 1944.
Timeline
Olympic Forest Reserve created
President Grover Cleveland set aside the Olympic Forest Reserve in 1897, the first federal protection on the peninsula and the seed of every designation that followed.
Mount Olympus National Monument proclaimed
President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed Mount Olympus National Monument on March 2, 1909, chiefly to protect the subalpine summer range of the elk later named for him. The monument covered the high country only; the rain forests stayed in the national forest for possible timber harvest.
Olympic National Park established
President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed the third Wallgren bill (H.R. 10024) on June 29, 1938, abolishing the monument and creating Olympic National Park at about 634,000 acres, with authority to grow toward 898,000. FDR toured the peninsula in October 1937, where Port Angeles schoolchildren held a banner asking him to create the park; he insisted the western rain forests be included over Forest Service objections.
Wartime spruce-logging pressure
Former Forest Service chief and timber lobbyist William B. Greeley pushed to cut Sitka spruce inside the park for aircraft production. The pressure was partly successful; some logging occurred from 1942 to 1944.
Truman adds the coastal strip
President Harry Truman signed Proclamation 3003 in 1953, adding the 50-mile Pacific coastal strip to the park. Further coastal additions came by act of Congress in 1976 and 1986.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Olympic was named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1976 and a World Heritage Site in 1981, recognizing the rain forest, the alpine country, and one of the longest stretches of wild Pacific coast in the lower 48.
Eight-tribe cooperative pact signed
The park and eight treaty nations, the Lower Elwha Klallam, Jamestown S'Klallam, Port Gamble S'Klallam, Skokomish, Quinault, Hoh, Quileute, and Makah, signed a government-to-government cooperative agreement. These nations hold treaty fishing, hunting, and gathering rights on and near these lands today.
Elwha dams fully removed
The Elwha Dam came down in 2012 and Glines Canyon Dam in 2014, in what was then the largest dam-removal project in U.S. history. Salmon are recolonizing the upper river. The Lower Elwha Klallam Nation led the decades-long push for the removal and the salmon's return.
Hurricane Ridge Day Lodge destroyed by fire
The Hurricane Ridge Day Lodge burned on May 7, 2023. The area reopened June 27, 2023 and now operates with no food service or indoor warming shelter at the top.