ND
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Badlands cut by the Little Missouri in western North Dakota, homeland of the Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara, where Theodore Roosevelt ranched from 1883.
Established
We haven’t been to Theodore Roosevelt yet. This page is the homework we’re doing before we drive in: which unit earns the day, which short hikes fit small legs, and the logistics that catch families off guard on the Northern Plains. The structured sections below are the plan. We’ll come back and rewrite the top once we’ve actually stood on the rim above the Little Missouri.
This is three disconnected units strung along the Little Missouri River, and most of the visit is a driving plan. The 36-mile South Unit Scenic Loop near Medora is the wildlife drive: bison, prairie-dog towns, and the wild horse herd, all visible from the car, with the Wind Canyon Trail (0.4 mi) for the shortest hike to a real view. The North Unit, about 70 miles north near Watford City, carries deeper canyon walls, bighorn sheep, and far fewer cars. The base dossier puts the drive between visitor centers at about 1.25 hours. The Elkhorn Ranch Unit sits between them on a gravel road that is often impassable when wet. The Maltese Cross Cabin, Roosevelt’s 1883 ranch cabin, is a short indoor stop beside the South Unit Visitor Center.
The badlands are the homeland of the Mandan (Nueta), Hidatsa (Nuxbaaga), and Arikara (Sahnish), allied today as the MHA Nation of the Fort Berthold Reservation, just north and east of the park, with the Lakota to the south and the Apsáalooke (Crow) to the west. Roosevelt arrived in 1883 on land that was already home. The bison the park reintroduced in 1956 are now being transferred back to tribal herds, including MHA Nation lands, under an NPS surplus-bison program, a restoration that is still going on rather than finished.
Three things shape the trip. The first is distance: the South and North units are 70 miles apart, so seeing both is an overnight, and most one-day visitors only see the South. The second is weather. Summer runs into the 90s and past 100 with violent afternoon storms, and the mosquitoes along the river are heavy in June and July. Fall is the better window, 60s to 70s with gold cottonwoods and bugling elk. The third is the free stop on the way: the Painted Canyon overlook at I-94 Exit 32 has a paved rim and no entrance fee, a 30-minute look for travelers who can’t commit a day. We’re aiming for September, when the light goes long and the drive between the units is easy.
I
Basic info
- Established
- 1978
- Area
- 70,447 acres
- Visitors (2022)
- 668,679
- Elevation
- 1,962–2,855 ft
- Designation
- National Memorial Park (1947)
- Designation
- National Park (1978)
II
Logistics
Seasons
Spring
- Green-up and bird arrivals. Mud season can close the gravel road to the Elkhorn Ranch Unit, and the North Unit Scenic Drive above Oxbow Overlook can close for bighorn sheep lambing.
- 40s to 70s °F. Rapid green-up across the prairie benches.
- A good window before the summer heat and the river mosquitoes. Check road status at a visitor center before driving the Elkhorn gravel.
Summer
- Hot and busy. About 80 percent of the year's visits fall May through September per the base dossier, and most of them see only the South Unit.
- 90s °F and sometimes past 100, with violent afternoon thunderstorms. Mosquitoes are heavy along the Little Missouri in June and July.
- Drive the loops early or late for wildlife and cooler light. Evening ranger programs run at the Cottonwood Amphitheater in the South Unit.
Fall
- The best season. Cottonwoods along the Little Missouri turn gold in late September and early October, elk bugle, and the bison roundups run.
- 60s to 70s °F by day, cool nights.
- Long gold light, thinner crowds, and the easiest weather for the 70-mile drive between the South and North units.
Winter
- Cold and quiet. The South Unit Scenic Loop is often partly closed by snow and the Painted Canyon Visitor Center is seasonal, typically closed late fall through spring.
- Sub-zero cold and hard wind chill are common. Snow.
- Bighorn sheep are more visible in the North Unit, and Painted Canyon throws sharp light against snow. Dress for real cold and check road status first.
With kids
Theodore Roosevelt is three disconnected units along the Little Missouri River, and the family plan is mostly a driving plan: the 36-mile South Unit Scenic Loop near Medora for bison, prairie dogs, and wild horses from the car, and the quieter North Unit, about 70 miles north near Watford City, for deeper canyon walls and bighorn sheep. The Maltese Cross Cabin beside the South Unit Visitor Center is short and indoor. The shortest hike to a real view is the Wind Canyon Trail, a 0.4-mile loop on the Scenic Loop.
- Junior Ranger booklets are at the South Unit, North Unit, and Painted Canyon visitor centers, so a family can earn one even on a short I-94 stop at Painted Canyon.
- The Maltese Cross Cabin tour is short and indoor and works for kids who want the Roosevelt story without a hike. Bring questions.
- Wind Canyon Trail (0.4 mi loop, about 50 ft of gain) is the shortest hike to a real view. Little Mo in the North Unit (0.7 or 1.1 mi) is the easy riverside option.
- Prairie-dog towns sit right along the South Unit Scenic Loop, visible from the car. Keep your distance: prairie-dog fleas can carry sylvatic plague.
- Bison have the right of way. NPS asks visitors to stay in the vehicle and keep 25 yards. People are gored on plains parks every year.
Accessibility
Much of the park is seen from the car. The Painted Canyon overlook off I-94 Exit 32 has a paved rim area a short walk from the lot, the most accessible badlands view in the park, with no entrance fee. The Maltese Cross Cabin is a self-guided indoor stop at the South Unit Visitor Center. Most named trails beyond the rim are unimproved dirt and badlands clay.
- Painted Canyon overlook (I-94 Exit 32): paved rim area a short walk from the lot, no entrance fee, seasonal visitor center.
- Maltese Cross Cabin: self-guided and indoor, beside the South Unit Visitor Center during visitor-center hours.
- South Unit Scenic Loop and North Unit Scenic Drive are wildlife drives with numbered pullouts. Much of the wildlife is visible without leaving the vehicle.
- Trails such as Caprock Coulee (4.3 mi, about 700 ft of gain) are unimproved, full-sun, and carry no water. The Wind Canyon loop is short but unpaved.
Things you can't miss
Natural places
Painted Canyon↗
The badlands view most travelers see, reached from the Painted Canyon Visitor Center at I-94 Exit 32, east of Medora. There is no entrance fee at this overlook, and a paved rim area a short walk from the lot makes it the most accessible badlands look in the park. The rim gazes out over the homeland of the Mandan (Nueta), Hidatsa (Nuxbaaga), and Arikara (Sahnish). The seasonal visitor center runs roughly late April to early November per NPS. The Painted Canyon Nature Trail drops 0.9 miles below the rim for those who want more.
Little Missouri River↗
The river that cut the badlands and the spine of all three park units, South, North, and the Elkhorn Ranch unit between them. It was a travel and hunting corridor for the Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara long before Roosevelt arrived in 1883. Its banks carry the park's cottonwood gallery forest, which turns gold in late September and early October. NPS trip-planning notes warn that mosquitoes are heavy along the water in June and July.
Petrified Forest↗
On the west boundary of the South Unit, the third-highest concentration of petrified wood in the United States, after Petrified Forest National Park and Yellowstone, per NPS. The wood is the fossilized remains of a roughly 60-million-year-old Paleocene forest. Reaching it is a longer day, about 10 miles for the full Petrified Forest Loop per NPS, or a shorter out-and-back from the plateau trailhead off a gravel road. No services on the route.
Prairie-dog towns↗
Black-tailed prairie dog colonies sit right along the South Unit Scenic Loop, where they are visible from the car. NPS manages the prairie dogs as a keystone species and as habitat tied to black-footed ferret recovery across the Plains. Keep your distance and do not approach burrows: prairie-dog fleas can carry sylvatic plague. A reliable wildlife stop for kids who want to see something move without a long hike.
Our pick for nearby attractions
Maltese Cross Cabin↗
Roosevelt's 1883 ranch cabin, the first of his two Dakota ranches, moved several times before settling beside the South Unit Visitor Center in Medora in 1959 per NPS. Self-guided during visitor-center hours, it is short, indoor, and works for kids who want the Roosevelt story without a hike. It is the most concrete piece of the park's namesake history a family can stand inside, on land that was home to the Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara before Roosevelt arrived.
Places to stay
Cottonwood Campground↗
The South Unit's developed campground, on the Little Missouri river bottom under cottonwoods a few miles from the Medora entrance. It is reservable for part of the season through Recreation.gov, with some first-come sites. Bison and wild horses pass through the area, and it is the closest camping to the Maltese Cross Cabin and the Scenic Loop. Evening ranger programs run at the Cottonwood Amphitheater in summer.
Medora↗
The 1883 town at the South Unit gate, the only walkable cluster of hotels, restaurants, and services at either unit. The Theodore Roosevelt Medora Foundation runs much of it, including the Rough Riders Hotel and the summer Medora Musical at the Burning Hills Amphitheater. The North Unit's gateway, Watford City, is a working oil-patch town about 15 miles from that entrance with motel lodging.
Viewpoints and camping
Oxbow Overlook↗
The turnaround at the end of the North Unit Scenic Drive, about 14 miles out-and-back per the base dossier, looking down on a wide bend of the Little Missouri. The drive can close above the overlook for bighorn sheep lambing in spring. Per NPS, the North Unit sees far fewer cars than the South, and the canyon sight lines here are longer than anything in the South Unit.
South Unit Scenic Loop pullouts↗
The 36-mile South Unit Scenic Loop per the base dossier strings together bison range, prairie-dog towns, and the Wind Canyon overlook, with numbered pullouts along the way. It is the park's main wildlife drive, and low evening light is when the badlands stand out. Bison have the right of way. NPS asks visitors to stay in the vehicle and keep 25 yards. Parts of the loop close in winter snow and spring mud.
Trails worth the time
Wind Canyon Trail↗
The shortest hike in the park that reaches a real view: a 0.4-mile loop with about 50 feet of gain per the base dossier, ending at a wind-cut overlook of a Little Missouri bend on the South Unit Scenic Loop. It is the clearest won't-end-in-a-meltdown hike for younger legs, and a common sunset stop on the loop drive. Confirm current trail status on the NPS hiking page.
Caprock Coulee Trail↗
The classic North Unit day hike, a 4.3-mile loop with about 700 feet of gain per the base dossier, climbing out of a coulee onto a ridge with long canyon views. It is too much for the youngest hikers and sized for the older-kid, we-want-the-real-badlands reader. Full sun, no water, carry your own. Re-confirm the distance and gain against the NPS hiking page before you go.
Our pick for things to do nearby
Wildlife driving on the Scenic Loops↗
The South Unit Scenic Loop is the park's wildlife drive: bison, prairie dogs, and the wild horse herd of roughly 200 head per the base dossier live along it. The horses are the park's most-debated animals. An NPS plan to remove the herd was suspended in April 2024 after public and political opposition. The park's bison, reintroduced in 1956, are now a source for transfers to tribal herds, including MHA Nation lands, a living restoration story. Bison have the right of way. Stay in the vehicle and keep 25 yards. The North Unit's animal is the bighorn sheep instead.
Common questions
- When should we go with kids?
- September or October. Fall is the best season here: 60s to 70s °F, gold cottonwoods along the Little Missouri, bugling elk, and the easiest weather for the 70-mile drive between the South and North units. Summer runs into the 90s and past 100 with violent thunderstorms and heavy river mosquitoes. Winter brings sub-zero cold and partial road closures.
- Do we need a reservation to enter?
- No. There is no timed entry and no advance reservation required. Backcountry camping needs a free permit from a visitor center, and the two campgrounds are reservable on Recreation.gov.
- How far apart are the units?
- The South Unit at Medora and the North Unit near Watford City are about 70 miles apart by I-94 and US 85, roughly a 1.25-hour drive between visitor centers. Most one-day visitors see only the South Unit. The Elkhorn Ranch Unit sits between them on a gravel road that is often impassable when wet.
- Where do we get gas, food, and water?
- Medora at the South Unit gate is the only walkable cluster of services, with lodging, restaurants, and the South Unit Visitor Center. Watford City, about 15 miles from the North Unit entrance, is the North Unit's gateway. Cell coverage is spotty in the South Unit and mostly nonexistent in the North Unit.
- Is the Painted Canyon stop worth it off I-94?
- Yes, and it is free. The Painted Canyon Visitor Center at I-94 Exit 32, east of Medora, has a paved rim overlook a short walk from the lot and no entrance fee. The visitor center is seasonal, typically late April to early November. Low sun at sunrise and sunset throws the badlands into relief.
- What about the wild horses and the bison?
- The South Unit Scenic Loop is the park's wildlife drive: bison, prairie dogs, and the wild horse herd of roughly 200 head live along it. The North Unit's signature animal is the bighorn sheep instead. Bison have the right of way. NPS asks visitors to stay in the vehicle and keep 25 yards.
III
History
Who shaped this place
Indigenous nations
- Mandan (Nueta) — One of the three peoples of the MHA Nation whose homeland the Little Missouri Badlands sit within. The endonym Nueta is cited to the NPS MHA Nation page, cross-checked against the Nation's own site.
- Hidatsa (Nuxbaaga) — One of the three peoples of the MHA Nation. The endonym Nuxbaaga is cited to the NPS MHA Nation page.
- Arikara (Sahnish) — One of the three peoples of the MHA Nation, named Sahnish in the Nation's own headers and on the NPS MHA Nation page.
- MHA Nation (Three Affiliated Tribes) — The Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara allied today as the MHA Nation of the Fort Berthold Reservation, just north and east of the park. Park bison are being transferred back to tribal herds, including MHA Nation lands.
- Lakota — Used the Little Missouri Badlands to the south of the park as winter shelter and hunting ground.
- Apsáalooke (Crow) — Used the badlands country to the west.
Advocates
- William "Bill" Lemke↗ — U.S. Representative (R-ND), 1940s campaign
The Nonpartisan League agrarian populist led the five-year campaign that produced the 1947 act creating Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park. It was his last major effort. He died in 1950.
- Theodore Roosevelt — Rancher 1883 to 1887, posthumous namesake
Roosevelt ranched in the badlands at the Maltese Cross and Elkhorn ranches after the deaths of his mother and first wife on the same day in 1884. His Dakota memoirs put the badlands in front of a national readership. He later said he would not have become president without his Dakota years. He arrived on land already home to the Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara.
- Quentin Burdick — U.S. Senator (D-ND), 1970s
Carried the 1978 redesignation to national park and the addition of the Theodore Roosevelt Wilderness.
Detractors
- Cattle ranchers, McKenzie and Billings counties — 1940s
Resisted federal acquisition of grazing land during the 1940s campaign to establish the park.
- Coal and oil interests — 1970s to present
Have lobbied for boundary reductions and against wilderness expansion since the 1970s. The Bakken oil boom around 2008 to 2014 brought gas-flare light into the park's night sky.
Timeline
Roosevelt arrives in the Dakota Badlands
Theodore Roosevelt came to Medora in 1883 and bought a stake in the Maltese Cross Ranch, then built the Elkhorn Ranch in 1884. He arrived on land that was already home to the Mandan (Nueta), Hidatsa (Nuxbaaga), and Arikara (Sahnish), allied today as the MHA Nation. He ranched here through 1887. He did not discover the badlands.
Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park established
President Harry S. Truman signed the bill on April 25, 1947, creating Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park, the only national memorial park ever designated. Representative William Lemke of North Dakota drove the five-year campaign.
North Unit added
Congress added the North Unit, near present-day Watford City, by the Act of June 12, 1948 (Pub. L. 80-602), about 70 miles north of the South Unit.
Bison reintroduced
The park reintroduced bison from Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge in Nebraska in 1956. The herd is now a source for transfers to tribal herds, including MHA Nation lands, under an NPS surplus-bison program, a living restoration story rather than a closed one.
Redesignated a national park
Congress redesignated the area Theodore Roosevelt National Park on November 10, 1978, under the National Parks and Recreation Act of 1978, and added the 29,920-acre Theodore Roosevelt Wilderness.
Wild horse removal plan suspended
After an NPS draft plan proposed removing the South Unit's roughly 200-head wild horse herd, sustained public and political opposition forced the Park Service to halt the removal plan in April 2024. The herd's future is unresolved.