VI

Virgin Islands National Park

Beaches, reefs, and Taino petroglyphs on St. John, reached by ferry, with an underwater snorkel trail at lifeguarded Trunk Bay.

Established

We haven’t been to St. John yet. This page is the homework we’re doing before we book the ferry: which beaches are worth the day, where the one lifeguard stands, and the logistics that catch families off guard on an island park you reach by boat. The structured sections below are the plan. We’ll rewrite the top once we’ve actually swum the snorkel trail.

The park covers about 60 percent of St. John, plus most of Hassel Island in the harbor at Charlotte Amalie. You fly into St. Thomas, taxi to the Red Hook dock, and take the ferry across to Cruz Bay, so the planning starts with two boats before a single beach. The headline experiences are in the water. Trunk Bay on the North Shore Road (Route 20) is the one beach with a lifeguard, and it carries an underwater snorkel trail with submerged interpretive plaques set 6 to 15 feet deep, one of the few of its kind in the NPS. Most other beaches have no lifeguard and no facilities, so reef shoes, UPF clothing, and reef-safe sunscreen do more for the kids than any itinerary.

St. John sits in the homeland of the Taino, an Arawakan-speaking people NPS documents living on the island from roughly 900 CE into the mid-1400s, with village sites at Cinnamon Bay, Coral Bay, and Caneel Bay. At the foot of the Reef Bay valley, Taino carvings sit on a rock face above a freshwater pool. NPS calls the valley a sacred place and describes the petroglyphs as representations of past Caciques. They were carved by the Taino and remained known to later residents. The island is also the homeland of the descendants of enslaved West and Central Africans, and the 1733 Akwamu insurrection, one of the earliest sustained slave revolts in the Americas, is interpreted at the Annaberg plantation ruins above the North Shore.

Two things shape the whole trip. The first is the storms. Hurricanes Irma and Maria, both Category 5, struck in September 2017. Caneel Bay never reopened, and Cinnamon Bay Campground, the only NPS-area lodging, did not fully reopen until August 16, 2024. This park’s open and closed state moves, so we’ll confirm each facility the week we travel. The second is the driving: the U.S. Virgin Islands drive on the left in left-hand-drive rental cars on steep, narrow roads, which is the kind of thing you want to know before you pull out of the Cruz Bay lot.

I

Basic info

Established
1956
Area
7,259 acres land (about 60 percent of St. John) + 5,650 acres marine; 14,737 acres total
Visitors (2023)
343,685
Elevation
0–1,277 ft
Designation
National Park (1956)
Designation
Marine expansion (1962)

II

Logistics

Seasons

Spring

  • The calm-sea, dry window outside spring break, and the easiest swimming for new snorkelers. Sea state on the North Shore is at its gentlest from March to May.
  • Highs in the 80s °F, low humidity, trade winds. The water sits near 80 °F year-round.
  • The family window. Snorkel Trunk Bay early, before the afternoon tour boats, and pick a North Shore bay like Maho when seas are flat.

Summer

  • Hot and humid, and hurricane season opens June 1. Lodging prices drop and crowds thin, but the trade-off is heat and storm risk.
  • Highs near 90 °F with high humidity. Afternoon showers are common; the sun is strong enough that UPF clothing matters more than the calendar suggests.
  • Hike the Reef Bay valley early or take the ranger boat-shuttle version. Watch the forecast and carry travel insurance from here on.

Fall

  • The peak of hurricane season runs September into October, the same months Irma and Maria struck in 2017. Some businesses scale back and flights thin out.
  • Hot and humid, with the highest storm risk of the year. Sea state can turn quickly.
  • The riskiest months to lock non-refundable plans. Confirm facility status the week of travel; this park's open and closed state moves.

Winter

  • Peak tourist season. Trade winds keep it comfortable and the seas are generally calm, but lodging books months out.
  • Highs in the low 80s °F, steady trade winds, little rain. The most pleasant stretch of the year.
  • Book lodging well ahead. Calm water and dry skies, paid for in crowds and higher rates.

With kids

Virgin Islands is a swim-and-snorkel park on one island, St. John, reached by ferry from St. Thomas. The headline experiences are in the water, so the planning is about sun, reef shoes, and which beaches have a lifeguard. Trunk Bay is the one lifeguarded beach and carries an underwater snorkel trail with submerged plaques at 6 to 15 feet. Most other beaches have no lifeguard and no facilities. There is no park-wide entrance fee, but Trunk Bay charges per person ages 16 and up.

  • Junior Ranger booklets are free at the Cruz Bay Visitor Center.
  • Trunk Bay is the only lifeguarded beach, with restrooms and snorkel rental on site; it is the safest first snorkel for kids who can swim with a mask.
  • Maho Bay stays shallow well offshore with sea turtles in the seagrass, which is why families with new snorkelers are pointed there.
  • Reef shoes matter: sea urchins sit on the rocks at most beaches, and reef-safe sunscreen plus UPF clothing are not optional in this sun.
  • The Reef Bay petroglyph hike is too long for small kids in the heat; the ranger-guided version with a boat shuttle back skips the climb out.

Accessibility

Access is by ferry to Cruz Bay, then by car or taxi on steep, narrow roads, and the U.S. Virgin Islands drive on the left in left-hand-drive rentals. A few stops are near the road; most of the park is beaches reached on foot and trails over packed earth, roots, and rock. The Cinnamon Bay nature loop is the one partly accessible walk.

  • The first 0.09 mile of the Cinnamon Bay nature loop is a 4-foot-wide concrete-and-wood boardwalk with very little slope, wheelchair and stroller friendly. The rest is packed earth with roots and rocks.
  • Trunk Bay has restrooms, paved access from the lot, and the only lifeguard in the park.
  • Most south-shore and East End beaches, including Salt Pond Bay and Drunk Bay, have no facilities and unimproved footpaths.
  • Roads are steep, narrow, and left-side-drive; rentals are left-hand-drive vehicles, which catches first-time drivers off guard.

Things you can't miss

Natural places

  1. Trunk Bay

    North Shore Road (Route 20), about 2.5 miles east of Cruz Bay.

    A crescent beach on the North Shore Road (Route 20) and the one park beach with a lifeguard. It carries an underwater snorkel trail, submerged interpretive plaques set roughly 6 to 15 feet deep, one of the few of its kind in the NPS system. There is no park-wide entrance fee, but Trunk Bay costs $5.00 per person ages 16 and up, sunrise to sunset ($2.50 with a Senior or Access Pass, free under 16). Restrooms and snorkel rental are on site. Snorkel it early, before the afternoon tour boats.

  2. Reef Bay petroglyphs

    Foot of the Reef Bay valley, reached by the Reef Bay Trail off Route 10.

    Taino carvings on a rock face above a freshwater pool at the foot of the Reef Bay valley. NPS describes them as representations of past Caciques, the chiefs the living Taino sought to commune with for guidance, and calls the valley a sacred place. The carvings were made by the Taino and remained known to later residents; they were documented, not discovered. They sit at the end of the Reef Bay Trail, about 3 miles one way, with roughly 900 feet to climb on the way out.

  3. Cinnamon Bay

    North Shore Road (Route 20), east of Trunk Bay.

    The longest beach on the North Shore and the home of the park's only campground, which fully reopened August 16, 2024. A short nature loop runs through plantation ruins on a Taino village site; its first 0.09 mile is a 4-foot-wide concrete-and-wood boardwalk with very little slope, friendly to wheelchairs and strollers, while the rest is packed earth with roots and rocks. The archaeological record here layers Taino occupation with plantation-era artifacts.

  4. Salt Pond Bay and Drunk Bay

    South shore, off Route 107 past Coral Bay.

    On the drier south shore off Route 107, with a salt pond behind the beach and tide pools at neighboring Drunk Bay, where visitors build small figures from coral rubble and driftwood. A footpath continues past the salt pond toward the Ram Head point, a cliff headland at the southern tip of the island. Less crowded than the North Shore, with no facilities and no lifeguard. Per NPS, this is the quieter counterpoint to the busy North Shore bays.

Nearby attractions

  1. Annaberg Sugar Plantation ruins

    0 mi from park · North Shore Road (Route 20), east of Cinnamon Bay.

    A Danish-era sugar plantation worked from the 1720s into the mid-1800s, on a hillside above the North Shore off Route 20. The standing ruins include a windmill tower, a horsemill, the factory, and a cookhouse. NPS interprets it as the park's primary site for the labor of enslaved West and Central Africans and for the 1733 Akwamu insurrection, centering enslaved labor and resistance rather than the planters. On scheduled days, rangers and culture-bearers demonstrate African cooking, fire-making, and basketry. The light is best in late afternoon, when the crowds thin.

  2. Hassel Island

    0 mi from park · Charlotte Amalie harbor, St. Thomas; boat access only.

    A separate piece of the park in the harbor at Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, and the reason the park spans two islands. It holds 19th-century British military ruins and a Danish steam-powered marine railway, reached only by boat. Per NPS, it is a different visit entirely from St. John's beaches, a half-day for families drawn to ruins and harbor history rather than swimming.

Our pick for places to stay

  1. Cinnamon Bay Campground

    Campground · cinnamonbayvi.com (concessioner); fully reopened Aug 16, 2024.

    The only NPS-area lodging in the park since Caneel Bay closed: bare tent sites, eco-tents, and cottages, with an on-site restaurant and the North Shore beach out front. It fully reopened August 16, 2024 after the 2017 hurricanes and the 2024 Ernesto cleanup, per the NPS status update. Reserve through the concessioner at cinnamonbayvi.com. Everything else is a rental or small inn in Cruz Bay or Coral Bay. The photo shows the beach in front of the campground, not the campsites.

Our pick for viewpoints and camping

  1. North Shore Road overlooks

    Route 20 pull-offs between Cruz Bay and Annaberg.

    The pull-offs along Route 20 between Cruz Bay and Annaberg look down on the string of North Shore bays: Caneel, Hawksnest, Trunk, Maho, and Cinnamon, with the offshore cays beyond. Per NPS and the trip-planning notes, this is the scenery families remember from the drive itself. Take the curves slowly: the U.S. Virgin Islands drive on the left in left-hand-drive rentals on narrow, steep roads.

Our pick for trails worth the time

  1. Reef Bay Trail

    3 mi · 900 ft gain · ~2 hr · strenuous

    A descent through tropical forest and plantation ruins to the Taino petroglyphs and a waterfall pool, about 3 miles one way with roughly 900 feet to climb on the way back out, per NPS. The walk down is moderate; the unshaded climb out in the heat is the hard part. NPS runs a ranger-guided version with a boat shuttle back so hikers skip the climb out, reserved at the Cruz Bay Visitor Center. Too long for small kids without the boat return.

Our pick for food and drink

  1. Cinnamon Bay Campground restaurant

    Cinnamon Bay, North Shore Road (Route 20).

    The only place to eat inside the park, behind the North Shore beach at the campground. It reopened with the campground on August 16, 2024, with dinner service, per the NPS status update. Everything else is in Cruz Bay or Coral Bay. The photo shows the Cinnamon Bay beach in front of the restaurant, not the dining room.

Our pick for things to do nearby

  1. Trunk Bay Underwater Snorkel Trail

    Trunk Bay, North Shore Road (Route 20).

    A marked underwater route with interpretive panels set roughly 6 to 15 feet deep, one of the few in the NPS system. The beach is lifeguarded, with snorkel rental and restrooms on site, which makes it the right first snorkel for kids who can swim with a mask. Best snorkeled early, before the afternoon tour boats. NPS also runs Discover the Reef ranger snorkel walks.

Common questions

How do we get to the park?
Fly into St. Thomas, taxi to the Red Hook ferry dock, and take the ferry to Cruz Bay on St. John. The park covers about 60 percent of St. John, plus most of Hassel Island in the harbor at Charlotte Amalie. Plan to base on St. John, not St. Thomas, to cut the daily commute.
When should we go with kids?
March to May for calm seas and dry weather outside spring break, or December to February for the pleasant peak season if you book lodging months ahead. Avoid September and October, the peak of hurricane season and the same months Irma and Maria struck in 2017.
What does it cost to get in?
There is no park-wide entrance fee. Trunk Bay charges $5.00 per person ages 16 and up, sunrise to sunset, with $2.50 for Senior or Access Pass holders and free under 16. Other beaches are free.
Where do we stay inside the park?
Cinnamon Bay Campground is the only NPS-area lodging since Caneel Bay closed, with bare tent sites, eco-tents, and cottages, plus an on-site restaurant. It fully reopened August 16, 2024; reserve through the concessioner at cinnamonbayvi.com. Everything else is a rental or small inn in Cruz Bay or Coral Bay.
Is the snorkeling good for beginners?
Yes. Trunk Bay has the only lifeguard, snorkel rental, restrooms, and an underwater trail with submerged interpretive plaques at 6 to 15 feet. Snorkel it early, before the afternoon tour boats. Maho Bay stays shallow well offshore and suits the newest swimmers.
What should we know about driving and safety?
The U.S. Virgin Islands drive on the left in left-hand-drive rental cars on steep, narrow roads. Most beaches have no lifeguard, sea urchins sit on the rocks, and the sun is strong: pack reef shoes, UPF clothing, and reef-safe sunscreen. Cell coverage is patchy on the south and east shores.

III

History

Who shaped this place

Indigenous nations

  • Taino — NPS documents the Taino, an Arawakan-speaking people, living on St. John from roughly 900 CE into the mid-1400s, with village sites at Cinnamon Bay, Coral Bay, Caneel Bay, and Lameshur Bay. The Reef Bay petroglyphs are Taino work. NPS publishes no distinct Taino-language endonym for these communities, so none is asserted beyond the NPS primary source.

Advocates

  • Laurance S. Rockefeller — Primary donor, 1950s

    On a fishing trip to St. John in the mid-1950s, Rockefeller became convinced the island's beaches and reefs should be permanently protected. Through his Jackson Hole Preserve Inc. he quietly assembled roughly 5,000 acres on the island and donated them as the core of the park. His Caneel Bay resort, opened in 1956, was meant to show that low-impact tourism could coexist with conservation.

  • Friends of Virgin Islands National Park — Stewardship nonprofit, founded 1988

    A long-running advocacy and stewardship organization that runs restoration projects and helps coordinate the ranger-led Reef Bay hike. It has been a steady voice through the post-2017 hurricane recovery.

  • Hubert Humphrey & Wayne Aspinall — Congressional sponsors, 1962

    Congressional supporters of the 1962 marine expansion, which added the offshore submerged lands and coral reefs under Public Law 87-750.

Detractors

  • St. John small landholders — 1950s to present

    Many descendants of formerly enslaved people held inherited parcels on St. John. The Rockefeller land assembly and later NPS acquisitions have remained a sore point for some long-resident families, the inholders, whose ties to the land predate the park.

  • Charter boat and cruise interests — 2001 to present

    The charter and yacht industry periodically objected to anchoring restrictions tied to the 2001 Coral Reef National Monument, and the cruise industry has pressed for expanded access that NPS has resisted.

Timeline

  1. Taino communities on St. John

    NPS documents the Taino living on St. John from roughly 900 CE into the mid-1400s, speaking an Arawakan language and arriving from South America by canoe beginning about 2,500 to 3,000 years earlier. The Reef Bay petroglyphs were carved by the Taino and remained known to later residents; NPS calls the valley a sacred place and describes the carvings as representations of past Caciques. They were documented, not discovered.

    kind:cultural·Source

  2. Danish plantations on St. John

    The Danish West India Company established plantations on St. John, expanding sugar production worked by enslaved West and Central Africans. The Annaberg ruins on the North Shore are the park's primary interpretive site for that labor.

    kind:event·Source

  3. The 1733 Akwamu insurrection

    Enslaved people on St. John, many of Akwamu origin, led one of the earliest sustained slave revolts in the Americas. NPS interprets the insurrection at Annaberg and elsewhere in the park.

    kind:event·Source

  4. United States buys the islands

    The United States purchased the Virgin Islands from Denmark for $25 million, a transfer tied to Panama Canal strategy. Emancipation in the Danish West Indies had come in 1848.

    kind:event·Source

  5. Virgin Islands National Park established

    President Dwight D. Eisenhower signed Public Law 84-925 on August 2, 1956, establishing the park around land Laurance S. Rockefeller's Jackson Hole Preserve Inc. had assembled on St. John and donated. The act capped the donated lands at not more than 9,485 acres.

    kind:designation·Source

  6. Marine expansion

    Public Law 87-750 added 5,650 acres of offshore submerged lands and coral reefs, recognizing the marine ecosystem as part of the park.

    kind:expansion·Source

  7. Hurricanes Irma and Maria

    Two Category 5 hurricanes, Irma on September 6 and Maria on September 19, devastated St. John. The Caneel Bay resort was destroyed and never rebuilt; Trunk Bay and Cinnamon Bay were heavily damaged, and several trails stayed impassable for years.

    kind:event

  8. Cinnamon Bay reopens

    Cinnamon Bay Campground fully reopened August 16, 2024, and Trunk Bay reopened August 15, 2024, after Tropical Storm Ernesto cleanup. Caneel Bay remains closed. Confirm each facility's status the week of travel; this is the most volatile park in the set.

    kind:event·Source