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Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve
The largest national park in the country: a gravel road and a footbridge lead to a glacier you can walk and a copper mill standing since 1938.
Established
We haven’t been to Wrangell-St. Elias yet. This page is the homework we’re doing before we drive in: how to reach a park larger than nine states with two kids, what a family can actually do once there, and the logistics that catch first-timers off guard. The structured sections below are the plan; we’ll rewrite the top once we’ve stood on the ice.
The size is the headline and the trap. At 13.2 million acres it is the largest national park in the country, but the visit concentrates in one of two corridors that do not connect inside the park: the McCarthy Road to Kennicott in the south, and the Nabesna Road in the north. We expect to go south, like most first-timers. The McCarthy Road is about 60 miles of gravel from Chitina, and at its end no private vehicle crosses: you park, walk a footbridge over the Kennicott River, and ride a shuttle the 5 miles up to Kennicott. The plan for Big and Little is the Root Glacier Trail, about 4 miles round-trip and mostly level, with a guided crampon walk onto the white ice as the payoff. Walking the glacier without a guide is dangerous, so the ice itself waits for a booked guide.
The land here is the homeland of four peoples the NPS names as present and active today: the Ahtna of the Copper River watershed, the Upper Tanana of the Nabesna and Chisana headwaters, the Eyak at the river’s mouth near Cordova, and the Tlingit of the Yakutat coast below Mount Saint Elias. The Ahtna had named and used the copper country for generations before prospectors staked the Bonanza claim in 1900; the name Chitina is from the Ahtna words for copper and river. The Kennecott mill, the 14-story building that ran from 1911 to 1938, still stands above the glacier and is entered only on a guided tour. We keep the two spellings straight on purpose: Kennecott with an e is the company and the town, Kennicott with an i is the glacier and the river.
Two things will shape the whole trip. The first is the season. Summer is the only window with everything open, late May at the soft front edge and mid-September at the close, and there is no cell service at Kennicott, spotty in McCarthy, none on the road. The second is supply and booking. There is no entrance fee, but the lodging and the few seasonal cafes are small and private and fill months ahead, so we’ll carry our own food for the gravel and lock the shuttle, the mill tour, and any flightseeing before we leave pavement.
I
Basic info
- Established
- 1980
- Area
- 13.2 million acres
- Visitors (2024)
- 81,670
- Elevation
- 0–18,008 ft
- Designation
- National Monument (1978)
- Designation
- National Park and Preserve (1980)
II
Logistics
Seasons
Spring
- Late May is the front edge of the season. McCarthy and Kennicott services open around then; the McCarthy Road and Nabesna Road are soft and rough until they dry out.
- 30s to 60s °F. Ice still sits on the Wrangells and the high passes.
- The earliest a family can realistically reach Kennicott, but expect some businesses still shuttered until the last week of May. Confirm openings before committing the drive.
Summer
- Peak season and the family window. Glacier-walk season, daily mill tours, and long daylight. The McCarthy Road is at its most passable.
- 50s to 70s °F by day, cool at night. Mosquitoes and biting flies are serious in June and July.
- Plan at least three days in the McCarthy and Kennicott area: town and mill tour, a guided Root Glacier ice walk, and flightseeing or a longer hike, with a slack day for weather.
Fall
- A short, narrowing window. Color runs through the first ten days of September; services close around mid-September. Aurora becomes possible by late September.
- 30s to 50s °F. First snows dust the high country.
- The quietest stretch with anything still open. Watch the calendar: the shuttle, the mill tours, and the cafes shut down within days of each other.
Winter
- The Copper Center headquarters stays open on weekdays; almost everything else closes. The McCarthy Road is impassable to most vehicles.
- Subzero to 20s °F. Deep cold and short daylight.
- Skiing, ice climbing, and dog mushing for the few who know the country. Not a family-trip season for a first visit.
With kids
Wrangell-St. Elias is the largest national park in the country at 13.2 million acres, but a family's visit concentrates in one of two corridors that are not connected inside the park: the McCarthy Road to Kennicott and Kennicott on the south side, and the Nabesna Road on the north. Most first visits go south. The realistic family core is the Kennicott townsite, the Kennecott mill, the Root Glacier Trail, and a flightseeing hour. The planning is front-loaded because services are few and seasonal.
- There is no entrance fee and no park-wide permit, but the access roads, not paperwork, are the limiting factor.
- The Root Glacier Trail, about 4 miles round-trip and mostly level from Kennicott, is the most family-realistic hike; the ice-walk portion needs crampons and a guide and operators set age minimums.
- The Kennecott mill tour runs about two hours with catwalks and missing floors; the concessioner sets an age minimum, often around 8 and up.
- The Bonanza Mine Trail (about 8.7 miles round-trip, roughly 3,800 feet of gain) is the hard climb above town and is too much for most kids; name it but plan around it.
- No cell service at Kennicott, spotty in McCarthy, none on the road. Download maps and confirm bookings before the drive.
- Junior Ranger booklets are at the Kennecott Visitor Center and the Copper Center main visitor center.
Accessibility
Access, not trail surface, is the mobility story here. Private vehicles do not cross into McCarthy: visitors park at the end of the McCarthy Road, walk a footbridge over the Kennicott River, and ride a shuttle the 5 miles up to Kennicott. The Kennicott townsite has walkable gravel streets and level ground among the mill buildings. Most trails beyond town are unimproved.
- No car crosses the McCarthy footbridge, so plan on the shuttle to reach Kennicott from the road's end.
- The Kennecott mill town has level gravel streets that suit a slow walk, though the mill interior tour involves stairs and catwalks.
- The Root Glacier Trail access portion is mostly level on a former mining road, but the ice itself is not accessible without crampons and a guide.
- The Copper Center Visitor Center at park headquarters, Mile 106.8 of the Richardson Highway, is the most accessible NPS facility but is not on the way to Kennicott.
Things you can't miss
Natural places
Root Glacier↗
The white ice a family can actually reach on foot. From Kennicott, an access trail of about 4 miles round-trip, mostly level on an old mining road, leads to where the rock-covered lower glacier gives way to clean white ice per NPS. Walking onto the ice itself is a guided activity: crevasses hide under surface debris, so the standard family version is to hike to the edge and book a crampon walk with a permitted guide. The Root and Kennicott glaciers drain Ahtna copper country; the river carries the name of explorer Robert Kennicott, not an Ahtna name.
Kennicott Glacier↗
The glacier visible from the Kennicott townsite without hiking anywhere. Its lower reach is buried under so much rock debris that first-time visitors mistake it for a gravel valley. The ice is underneath, flowing past town and joining the Root Glacier above it per NPS. It is the plain lesson in what a debris-covered glacier looks like, which is to say, not like the postcard until you climb up onto the Root. The country is Ahtna homeland.
Malaspina Glacier↗
The largest piedmont glacier in North America, roughly 1,500 square miles where it fans onto the coastal plain behind the Yakutat coast, larger than Rhode Island per NPS. A piedmont glacier flows out of a mountain valley and spreads into a wide lobe on flat ground. It is not reachable on foot by visitors, so the honest way to show kids the swirled moraine bands is the satellite image: the false-color frame here is from space, not the ground, with color used to separate ice from rock. The lobe spreads behind Tlingit homeland.
Mount Saint Elias↗
At 18,008 feet, the second-highest peak in both the United States and Canada; the summit straddles the border per NPS. It rises from near sea level at the head of Yakutat Bay, one of the greatest base-to-summit reliefs anywhere on Earth. It is not a road-accessible viewpoint from either the McCarthy or Nabesna corridor: a clear flightseeing day is the realistic way to see it. The peak stands above Tlingit homeland.
Nearby attractions
Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark↗
The 14-story copper concentration mill, bunkhouses, power plant, and manager's house left standing after the mines closed in 1938, designated a National Historic Landmark in 1986 and stabilized by the NPS since the late 1990s per NPS. The mines ran from 1911 to 1938 and produced more than 4.6 million tons of ore. The mill interior is entered only on a concessioner-led tour, because the building has catwalks and missing floors, and operators set age minimums. The mill stands on Ahtna homeland; copper had Ahtna names and uses before the 1900 claim was staked.
McCarthy footbridge and townsite↗
McCarthy is a privately held town of roughly 28 year-round residents, about 4.5 miles below Kennicott, and every family bound for Kennicott passes through it per NPS. Visitors park at the end of the McCarthy Road, walk a footbridge across the Kennicott River (no private vehicle crosses), and ride a shuttle the 5 miles up to Kennicott. The town sits in Ahtna homeland on the Kennicott River. The photo shows the Kennecott main street, the closest documented stand-in, not the McCarthy footbridge itself.
Our pick for places to stay
Public-use cabins↗
The park maintains several public-use cabins, some reachable off the Nabesna Road on the north side and others by foot or air, most first-come or booked through recreation.gov per NPS. There is no entrance fee, but confirm the current bookable list and any nightly fee on the NPS cabins page before relying on one, because the roster changes year to year. Several cabins sit on subsistence-use lands: give active Ahtna or Upper Tanana camps and caches a wide berth.
Viewpoints and camping
Donoho Basin↗
A basin reached by crossing the Root Glacier above Kennicott, looking back at the high peaks per NPS. It is a backpacker objective rather than a day-hike viewpoint, so for a family who will only fly or day-hike to the glacier edge, the photo carries the job of showing what the high country above town actually looks like. Ahtna homeland above the Kennicott Glacier.
Russell Glacier and Skolai Pass↗
Skolai Pass and the Russell Glacier are a flightseeing destination and a backcountry route out of McCarthy per NPS. For most families, a flight with Wrangell Mountain Air or a Copper-valley operator is the realistic way to see the high peaks and the icefields without a multi-day trip; figure roughly 300 dollars or more per person for about an hour, and confirm current rates. This is Upper Tanana and Ahtna country in the park interior.
Trails worth the time
Root Glacier Trail↗
The single most family-realistic hike in the park: about 4 miles round-trip to the ice from Kennicott, mostly level on a former mining road and trail per NPS. The access portion is walkable by most kids; setting foot on the white ice is the payoff, and that final step needs crampons and a guide. The country is Ahtna homeland; the river was named for explorer Robert Kennicott.
Stairway Icefall, upper Root Glacier↗
An icefall on the upper Root Glacier, where the ice breaks over a steep step in the bedrock per NPS. It sits beyond the standard family turnaround on the access trail, which makes it a better target for a flightseeing pass or a strong-hiker day than a kid hike. It pairs with the Root Glacier Trail as the what-is-up-above payoff: the place the trail is pointing toward, even if most families do not reach it on foot.
Our pick for food and drink
McCarthy and Kennicott seasonal eateries↗
A small number of seasonal cafes and a lodge dining room operate in McCarthy and Kennicott, open roughly late May to mid-September per NPS. Nothing at the townsite is open year-round, and the options are few even in summer. The honest family plan is to carry your own food for the 60-mile gravel McCarthy Road and count on limited, seasonal sit-down meals at the end of it. The photo shows the Kennecott mill town, captioned as the townsite rather than any single cafe.
Our pick for things to do nearby
Guided Root Glacier ice walk↗
Half-day guided ice walks with crampons are the activity most family itineraries actually book at Kennicott, run by permitted concessioners such as St. Elias Alpine Guides and Kennicott Wilderness Guides per NPS. Operators set age minimums for the crampon portion (older kids), while the access trail suits younger ones, so a family can split the day. Walking the glacier without a guide is dangerous: crevasses are masked by surface debris.
Common questions
- How do we actually get to Kennicott?
- Drive the McCarthy Road, about 60 miles of gravel from Chitina, then park at the end and walk the footbridge across the Kennicott River; no private vehicle crosses into McCarthy. A shuttle runs the 5 miles from the footbridge up to Kennicott. Many rental companies prohibit the McCarthy Road, so check your contract, or fly into the McCarthy airstrip.
- Why is it spelled both Kennecott and Kennicott?
- Both are correct and the NPS uses both. Kennecott with an e is the mining company and the mill town it built. Kennicott with an i is the glacier and the river, named for explorer Robert Kennicott. The company name was misspelled at incorporation in the 1900s and it stuck.
- When should we go with kids?
- Summer, roughly mid-June through August, is the only window with everything open: glacier-walk season, daily mill tours, and long daylight. Late May is the soft front edge and early September is the closing edge. Outside that, services shut and the McCarthy Road turns difficult.
- Is there cell service?
- No service at Kennicott, spotty in McCarthy, none on the road. Download maps and confirm every booking before you leave pavement.
- What is the entrance fee?
- There is no entrance fee and no park-wide permit. The costs that matter are the shuttle, the guided glacier walk, the mill tour, and flightseeing, which runs roughly 300 dollars or more per person for about an hour.
- Where do we sleep and eat?
- The park maintains public-use cabins, some off the Nabesna Road, mostly first-come or booked on recreation.gov. Lodging and the few seasonal cafes in McCarthy and Kennicott are private, small, and book months ahead for the short summer. Carry your own food for the McCarthy Road.
III
History
Who shaped this place
Indigenous nations
- Ahtna — The Ahtna homeland is the Copper River watershed, roughly 46,000 square miles, including Chitina, Copper Center, and the Kennicott country. The NPS states the Ahtna continue to live from the land and practice subsistence today. Ahtna, Incorporated is the regional ANCSA corporation.
- Upper Tanana — The Nabesna and Chisana river headwaters in the north of the park are Upper Tanana homeland, named and used into the present.
- Eyak — The Eyak homeland is at the mouth of the Copper River near Cordova, where the copper railroad reached tidewater.
- Tlingit — Tlingit homeland is the Yakutat Bay coast on the park's south edge, below Mount Saint Elias and the Malaspina Glacier.
Advocates
- President Jimmy Carter↗ — Proclaimed the monument, 1978
Carter used the Antiquities Act on December 1, 1978 to proclaim Wrangell-St. Elias and a string of other Alaska monuments, holding the ground until Congress passed ANILCA two years later.
- Ahtna village councils and the Chitina Native Corporation↗ — Subsistence assurances, 1970s to 1980s
Ahtna Athabaskan village councils and the Chitina Native Corporation supported protection conditioned on continued subsistence use, which ANILCA Title VIII codified across the new park and preserve.
- The Alaska Coalition — ANILCA campaign, 1970s
The Wilderness Society, the Sierra Club, and allied groups under the Alaska Coalition pressed for the lands act that turned the monument into a national park and preserve in 1980.
Detractors
- McCarthy and Kennicott residents — 1970s to 1980s
Many of the small number of people living at McCarthy and Kennicott had moved there for the post-mining quiet and resented federal regulation. The negotiated boundary embraces both towns while most town parcels stayed private.
- Sport-hunting interests — ANILCA debate
Opposition to closing the country to hunting was defused by establishing preserve units, the Mentasta, Chisana, and Nabesna preserves, where sport hunting is permitted.
Timeline
The White River Ash falls
An eruption of Mount Churchill laid the eastern lobe of the White River Ash across the Yukon in the ninth century AD, with dates from roughly AD 803 to 853 depending on the method, one of the largest volcanic events in the region in the last two thousand years. The volcanoes here are not extinct history; Mount Wrangell still vents steam.
Copper staked at Bonanza Ridge
Prospectors staked a copper claim at Bonanza Ridge above the Kennicott Glacier in 1900. The Ahtna had named and used the copper country for generations before; the claim was staked, the ore was not discovered. The Ahtna word for Chitina, tsedi plus na, means copper river.
Kennecott mines and the railroad open
Backed by the Guggenheim and J.P. Morgan syndicate, the Kennecott Copper Corporation began mining in 1911, served by the 196-mile Copper River and Northwestern Railway to tidewater at Cordova. The company name was misspelled with an e at incorporation; the glacier and river keep the i, for explorer Robert Kennicott.
The mines close
Kennecott shut down in 1938 after producing more than 4.6 million tons of ore. The buildings and equipment were left in place, which is why one of the most intact early-twentieth-century mining landscapes anywhere still stands above the glacier.
National monument proclaimed
President Jimmy Carter proclaimed Wrangell-St. Elias National Monument on December 1, 1978, under the Antiquities Act, during the standoff over Alaska lands that preceded ANILCA.
National park and preserve under ANILCA
The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, Public Law 96-487, converted the monument to a national park and preserve on December 2, 1980, adding millions of acres of preserve where subsistence and sport hunting continue under ANILCA Title VIII.
Kennecott named a National Historic Landmark
The Kennecott mill town was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1986. The National Park Service has acquired and stabilized the mill structures gradually since the late 1990s.