Photo by Carsten Steger / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

WY/MT/ID

Yellowstone National Park Est.

The first national park in the world — 2.2M acres of geyser basin, caldera, and Lamar wolves we have not yet seen.

We have not been to Yellowstone yet. We are reading our way in. Cy is on Aubrey Haines ’s The Yellowstone Story; Big has been pulling up wolf videos from the Lamar Valley packs since November. The plan is a north-loop trip in late spring, before the West Yellowstone roads sort themselves out. What we already know: bison gore more visitors each year than bears, the park sits on the Yellowstone Caldera — an active supervolcano the USGS keeps on Normal alert — and the 1872 act that created it set the template every other national park inherited. still shape the lodgepole stands we hope to walk through. F.V. Hayden ’s 1871 survey is what Congress saw before they voted, and the 1995 wolf reintroduction is the part Big is most ready to walk into.

I

Basic info

Established
1872
Area
2,219,791 acres
Visitors (2024)
4,744,353
Elevation
5,282–11,358 ft
Designation
UNESCO Biosphere Reserve (1976)
Designation
UNESCO World Heritage Site (1978)

II

Logistics

Seasons

Spring

  • Roads reopen on a staggered schedule from mid-April through Memorial Day.
  • Snow lingers above 7,000 ft; lower elevations green up first.
  • Bears emerge from hibernation, bison calves ("red dogs") drop, and the northern range is the wildlife window.

Summer

  • All roads, lodges, and campgrounds open; this is peak season.
  • Warm days at lower elevations, afternoon thunderstorms most days, cold nights above 8,000 ft.
  • Every geyser basin, every entrance, and the worst crowding — half the year's visits land in June–August.

Fall

  • Roads stay open through mid- or late-October; most close to wheeled traffic by early November.
  • Cold nights, narrowing daylight, first snows above 8,000 ft.
  • Bull elk bugle at Mammoth (peak third week of September); fewer crowds; the bison rut ended in August.

Winter

  • Interior roads close to vehicles November through mid-April; access by snowcoach or snowmobile only.
  • Deep cold, deep snow, short days.
  • The North Entrance (Gardiner) to Northeast Entrance (Cooke City) road stays open year-round; wolf-watching in Lamar peaks February and March.

With kids

Yellowstone is unusually kid-friendly for a wilderness park because the geyser basins, boardwalks, and roadside wildlife pull-outs are stroller-and-toddler accessible. Distances are big — the Grand Loop is 142 miles of slow road — so plan camp moves carefully.

  • Junior Ranger booklet ($3) is excellent — every visitor center has them; badges sworn in by a ranger at any station.
  • Bison and elk wander into developed areas. The 25-yard rule is real; explain it before the trip, not when you see one.
  • Boardwalks are not optional. Falling into a hot spring is the most common serious injury; the rules exist for a reason.
  • Lamar Valley wolf-watching means a pre-dawn alarm and a hot thermos in the car. Worth it for kids old enough to share a spotting scope.

Accessibility

Most of the park's headline sights have paved or boardwalk access for wheelchairs and strollers. Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring (boardwalk loop), Mammoth Hot Springs lower terraces, the Norris museum, and Artist Point are all step-free.

  • Old Faithful Visitor Education Center is fully accessible; eruption-time announcements posted at the desk.
  • Grand Prismatic boardwalk loop is firm and flat; the Fairy Falls Overlook (the famous aerial view) is a 1.6 mi gravel grade — wheelchair-rated "with assistance."
  • Most lodging has a limited number of ADA rooms. Book through Xanterra in person — the online system does not always show availability.
  • Service animals welcome; pets are restricted to roads, parking lots, and within 100 ft of campsites.

Things you can't miss

Natural places

  1. Grand Prismatic Spring

    Midway Geyser Basin, Grand Loop Road.

    The third-largest hot spring on Earth — roughly 370 ft across, 121 ft deep — with rings of orange, ochre, and green that are heat-tolerant bacteria sorted by temperature. The boardwalk loop runs at ground level; the full ring of color only resolves from the 1.2-mile Fairy Falls overlook spur, mid-morning before the steam thickens.

  2. Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces

    Mammoth, near the North Entrance at Gardiner.

    Carbonate-rich water rises through Mississippian limestone and lays down travertine the moment it meets the air, roughly two tons a day across the active terraces. The Lower and Upper boardwalks each take about forty-five minutes; the channels shift season to season, so the white-and-orange pattern is never the one in the postcard.

  3. Lamar Valley

    Northeast Entrance Road between Tower and Cooke City.

    Crow, Eastern Shoshone, Bannock, and Tukudika ground long before it was the place to find wolves; the northeast valley runs along the year-round Gardiner-to-Cooke-City road. Be at a pullout in the last hour before dark or the first hour after dawn — the scopes belong to the wolf-watchers and they'll share a look on the Junction Butte pack if you ask.

  4. Norris Geyser Basin

    Grand Loop Road, midway between Mammoth and Madison.

    459°F measured down a research drill hole; the most acidic chemistry in the park; home to Steamboat, which has gone 300-plus feet on its major eruptions and is the world's tallest active geyser. Two loops, Porcelain (0.75 mi) and Back Basin (1.5 mi); features come and go between visits.

  5. Old Faithful

    Upper Geyser Basin, Grand Loop Road south of Madison Junction.

    Intervals run 60–110 minutes — short eruptions feed shorter waits, long ones (over 2.5 minutes) push it to the 90-minute pattern that has held since the 1998 earthquake. Heights range 106–184 ft; eruptions last 1.5–5 minutes. The next prediction is on the whiteboard at the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center and in the NPS app; the bench around the cone is paved.

  6. Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

    North Rim and South Rim drives, south of Canyon Village.

    Twenty miles long, 800–1,200 ft deep, walls of rhyolite altered by hydrothermal activity — puffs of steam still rise off the canyon faces. The Lower Falls drops 308 ft; Artist Point, Inspiration Point, and Lookout Point are short walks from the rim-drive parking. Most rim trails are stepped or stair-graded; the Brink of the Lower Falls parking sidewalk and the South Rim sidewalk are wheelchair-accessible.

  7. Mud Volcano and Dragon's Mouth Spring

    Grand Loop Road between Fishing Bridge and Canyon Village.

    The NPS Historic Tribes page records the Kiowa tradition that places Dragon's Mouth as the hot spring where their creator gave them the Yellowstone area for their home; the Crow read the steam as the snorts of an angry bull bison. Mud Volcano itself is a 30 by 30 ft mud cone Nathaniel Langford described in 1870 as a seething, bubbling mass of mud. The hillsides smell of sulfur, the work of hydrogen sulfide bacteria breaking the rock down to clay; the spring's surge has been quieter since 1994.

  8. Morning Glory Pool

    End of the Upper Geyser Basin boardwalk loop, past Old Faithful.

    Average temperature 159.3°F, pH 7.6, named in the 1880s for the flower it resembled. The center used to run uniform blue; the orange-and-yellow rings around it record decades of coins, rocks, and logs thrown into the vent — the debris cut circulation, dropped the temperature, and let cooler-water thermophiles in. The colors here are the bacteria, not the minerals. Rangers ask visitors to report vandalism.

  9. West Thumb Geyser Basin

    Grand Loop Road at Grant Village junction.

    Hot springs that open directly onto the shoreline of Yellowstone Lake — Abyss Pool, named in 1935 by Chief Park Naturalist C.M. Bauer for its depth, sits at the water's edge. Fishing Cone, the spring that erupted to 40 ft in 1919, is where Superintendent P.W. Norris (1877–1882) first showed off the cook-your-catch-on-the-hook trick that visitors kept repeating for decades; the practice is now prohibited. The NPS removed the campground, cabins, cafeteria, and gas station that used to crowd the basin in the 1980s.

  10. Yellowstone Lake

    Lake Village / Bridge Bay / Grant Village shoreline.

    A 132-square-mile lake at 7,733 ft, the largest lake above 7,000 ft in North America, freezes over every winter in late December or early January and thaws in late May or early June. Average water temperature 41°F; immersion survival per NPS is 20–30 minutes, so swimming is not recommended. It holds the largest wild cutthroat trout population in North America, threatened now by illegally introduced lake trout, and a 390 ft canyon on the floor east of Stevenson Island is the deepest known point.

Nearby attractions

  1. Roosevelt Arch

    0 mi from park · Gardiner, MT — North Entrance.

    The stone arch at the only year-round entrance, cornerstone laid by Theodore Roosevelt on April 24, 1903. The inscription — For the Benefit and Enjoyment of the People — is lifted from the 1872 Yellowstone Act; the same act dispossessed the Crow, Eastern Shoshone, and Bannock who had used the upper Yellowstone for ten thousand years before the line was carved.

  2. Buffalo Bill Center of the West

    53 mi from park · 720 Sheridan Ave, Cody, WY — East Entrance corridor.

    Five museums under one roof in Cody — Plains Indian, Whitney Western Art, Cody Firearms, Draper Natural History, and the namesake Buffalo Bill. The Plains Indian galleries draw from Arapaho, Lakota, Crow, Cheyenne, Blackfeet, and Pawnee collections; the wall text quotes living tribal historians beside the cradleboards, and Big read every label.

  3. Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center

    0 mi from park · 201 S Canyon St, West Yellowstone, MT — West Entrance.

    An AZA-accredited sanctuary opened in 1993 for grizzlies and wolves that couldn't be released back to the wild — naturalists narrate the enclosure from a few feet away. The Keeper Kids program lets kids hide food for the bears before the gates open and then watch the search through the habitat.

Places to stay

  1. Old Faithful Inn

    Lodge · Xanterra (307-344-7311); books 12–13 months out for peak summer.

    Robert Reamer's 1903–04 log lodge — National Historic Landmark, the largest log structure in the world — with a seven-story lobby trussed in hand-hewn lodgepole pine. Walk in once and most kids will tell you it's the trip; the upper-floor balconies look down on the geyser through the front windows.

  2. Lake Yellowstone Hotel & Cabins

    Hotel · Xanterra (307-344-7311); season mid-May through early October.

    The oldest operating hotel in any U.S. national park, opened 1891, yellow Colonial Revival above the lake. A string quartet plays the lobby in the afternoons; the sun porch faces the water; the loudest sound after ten p.m. is a screen door on the cabin row.

  3. Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel & Cabins

    Hotel · Xanterra (307-344-7311); closed only March–April.

    The only in-park hotel you can drive to in winter, on the site of the 1883 National Hotel and rebuilt in 1936. Bull elk graze the parade-ground lawn during the September rut — close enough from a second-floor window to hear the bugle work the cold morning air.

Viewpoints and camping

  1. Artist Point

    South Rim Drive, Canyon Village; seasonal — closes in winter.

    A paved overlook on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone with the canonical angle on the 308-ft Lower Falls — the view Thomas Moran painted in 1872 and most people have been chasing since. About 250 yards from the car; that's part of why it works.

  2. Grand Prismatic Overlook

    Fairy Falls Trailhead, Grand Loop Road south of Midway Geyser Basin.

    The NPS-built platform on the Fairy Falls Trail spur is the only place to see the full color ring from above. A flat 1.2-mile out-and-back south of Midway Geyser Basin; the difference between boardwalk-level and the overlook is the difference between I saw it and I saw it.

  3. Hayden Valley

    Grand Loop Road between Canyon Village and Fishing Bridge — multiple signed pullouts.

    Crow and Eastern Shoshone summer range along the Yellowstone River between Canyon and Fishing Bridge. Year-round range now for the central bison herd, a grizzly corridor in spring and fall. Drive it slowly with the window cracked; on a cold morning a bison's breath carries fifty yards.

  4. Pebble Creek Campground

    Northeast Entrance Road near the Pebble Creek trailhead.

    Twenty-seven sites along Soda Butte Creek in the northeast corner, vault toilets, no hookups, dense lodgepole shade. This is the campground the wolf-watchers stay at. You'll hear the pre-dawn Subarus heading out for Lamar before the coffee water boils.

Trails worth the time

  1. Mount Washburn

    6 mi · 1400 ft gain · ~4 hr · strenuous

    Six miles round-trip from Dunraven Pass up to the 10,219-ft fire-lookout summit, with a glassed-in interpretive shelter and panoramas twenty to fifty miles into the interior. Bighorn sheep on the upper slopes; afternoon lightning above treeline in summer, so start early.

  2. Upper Geyser Basin loop

    5 mi · 50 ft gain · ~4 hr · easy

    Five miles of mostly paved boardwalk past Old Faithful, Castle, Grand, Riverside, Daisy, and Beehive. Stop at the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center first; rangers post the next predicted eruption windows and you can plan the loop around two or three of them.

  3. Trout Lake

    1.2 mi · 150 ft gain · ~1.5 hr · moderate

    A 1.2-mile lollipop through Douglas fir up to a small lake in the northeast corner near Pebble Creek. River otters work the inlet in June when the cutthroat spawn; grizzlies frequent the meadow, so bear spray on the hip is not optional.

  4. Yellowstone Lake Overlook

    1.7 mi · 400 ft gain · ~2 hr · moderate

    A 1.7-mile loop out of the West Thumb Geyser Basin parking lot — climbs through thermal features into a sage meadow with the Absaroka range stacked above the lake. Most people are down at the boardwalk and never look up.

  5. Brink of the Lower Falls

    0.7 mi · 600 ft gain · ~1 hr · strenuous

    A short, very steep 0.7-mile out-and-back — about 600 ft of drop on switchbacks — that puts you on the lip of the 308-ft Lower Falls. The water leaves the world right under the railing; the climb back is what gets people who skipped breakfast.

Food and drink

  1. Old Faithful Inn Dining Room

    Old Faithful Inn — reservations 307-344-7311.

    Dinner under the seven-story log truss, in the same room since 1903, with a kitchen that buys Alaskan halibut and Idaho trout through the parks' Sustainable Seafood program. Reserve the same call you book the lodge; walk-ins get the lounge menu if anything.

  2. Lake Yellowstone Hotel Dining Room

    Lake Yellowstone Hotel — reservations 307-344-7311.

    The dining room of the 1891 hotel, windows turned toward Yellowstone Lake. Service is slower than at the Inn. The courses arrive at the pace of the light on the water, which in July holds long enough to walk back to the cabin without a flashlight.

  3. Mammoth Hotel Dining Room

    Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel — reservations 307-344-7311.

    The year-round room in the hotel built in 1936 — open the months when most of the loop road is snowmobile-only. Bull elk on the lawn through September; the menu leans Montana beef, bison, and trout, and the bar pours Bozeman and Big Sky breweries by the pint.

Things to do nearby

  1. Yellowstone Wolf Tracker

    Departs Gardiner, MT (north) or Cooke City, MT (northeast).

    A six-to-eight-hour guided day in Lamar with high-power spotting scopes set up at the pullouts before most cars are out of Gardiner. No age minimum and no cap on questions; tours depart Gardiner or Cooke City.

  2. Bridge Bay boat tour, Yellowstone Lake

    Bridge Bay Marina, Yellowstone Lake.

    A one-hour cruise on the Lake Queen II out of Bridge Bay Marina, across the largest high-elevation lake in North America (above 7,000 ft, cold enough that survival time in the water is measured in minutes). Small-boat rentals at the same dock.

  3. Chico Hot Springs

    163 Chico Rd, Pray, MT — 30 mi north of Gardiner on US 89.

    Open since 1900 in Paradise Valley, thirty miles north of Gardiner on US 89 — geothermal pool, lodge, dining room, day-use access. After the Boiling River swim site closed indefinitely in the 2022 flood recovery, this is the closest soak to the North Entrance.

Common questions

When is the best month to visit with kids?
Mid-June through mid-September is the only window when every road and lodge is open; September splits the difference between crowds and weather. Avoid the first two weeks of August if you can — that is peak crowding.
How often does Old Faithful erupt?
On average every 92 minutes, with a range of 35–120 minutes. Rangers post the next predicted eruption window at the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center.
Are entry reservations required?
No. Yellowstone does not use a timed-entry reservation system. Backcountry camping permits and most in-park lodging do require advance reservations.
What do we do about bears?
Carry bear spray, keep it accessible, and know how to use it — ranger demos are free at most visitor centers. Stay 100 yards from bears and wolves and 25 yards from bison and elk.
What is the entrance fee?
$35 per private vehicle for a 7-day pass. An America the Beautiful Annual Pass is $80 and pays for itself by the third national-park unit in a year.
How long should we plan to stay?
A minimum of three full days for a single loop; five days lets you see both loops and the Lamar Valley without rushing. The Grand Loop alone is 142 miles of slow speed limits and bison jams.

III

History

Who shaped this place

Indigenous nations

Advocates

  • Ferdinand V. Hayden — USGS geologist

    Led the federally-funded 1871 Hayden Geological Survey and lobbied Congress with photographs, paintings, and a hand-painted map.

  • Nathaniel P. Langford — First park superintendent (1872, unpaid)

    Member of the 1870 Washburn-Langford-Doane Expedition who spent the winter of 1870–71 lecturing in Washington and New York for park status.

  • Thomas Moran — Painter, Hayden Survey

    His monumental canvas The Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone was bought by Congress and hung in the Capitol while the bill was in committee.

Detractors

  • Cost-conscious congressmen — U.S. Congress, 1872–1886

    The 1872 act passed only because it required no appropriation; Yellowstone had effectively no funding, staff, or enforcement for fourteen years until the Army was sent in 1886.

  • Settlers, miners, and poachers

    Routinely violated park boundaries through the late 19th century — felling timber, killing bison and elk for hides, and staking mineral claims.

  • Superintendent Philetus W. Norris — Park superintendent, 1877–1882

    Actively pushed Indigenous removal after the 1877 Nez Perce flight through the park and the 1878 Bannock War, using the "uninhabited wilderness" framing to erase the Tukudika Shoshone.

Timeline

  1. Yellowstone National Park Protection Act

    President Grant signs the Act of March 1, 1872 (17 Stat. 32) — the first national park in the world.

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  2. U.S. Army takes over administration

    After 14 years without funding, the Army moves into Camp Sheridan (later Fort Yellowstone) to police poaching and vandalism.

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  3. Roosevelt Arch and Old Faithful Inn

    North-entrance arch dedicated by Theodore Roosevelt; Robert Reamer breaks ground on the Old Faithful Inn the same season.

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  4. NPS Organic Act

    Congress creates the National Park Service to manage Yellowstone and its peers.

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  5. Army hands off to civilian Park Service

    Military administration ends; Park Service rangers take over Yellowstone.

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  6. UNESCO Biosphere Reserve

    Yellowstone is named one of the first U.S. biosphere reserves under UNESCO Man and the Biosphere.

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  7. UNESCO World Heritage Site

    Inscribed for its geothermal features and wild ecosystems.

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  8. Yellowstone Fires

    793,000 acres — about 36% of the park — burned in the largest fire season in park history, reshaping fire policy across the agency.

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  9. Gray wolves reintroduced

    14 wolves from Jasper, Alberta released in Lamar Valley after a 70-year absence; 17 more followed in 1996.

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  10. NPS centennial

    Park Service marks 100 years; Yellowstone records 4,257,177 visits, the pre-pandemic high to that point.

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  11. Record 4,860,242 visitors

    Post-pandemic surge produces the busiest year in park history.

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  12. Historic flood closes the park

    June rain-on-snow event destroys the Gardiner–Mammoth road; all five entrances close for the first time in 34 years.

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  13. 4,744,353 visitors

    Second-busiest year on record, up 5.4% from 2023.

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